Tagliolini al Limone (Southern Italian Tagliolini with Lemon)

Campania, and specifically the Amalfi Coast, is known for its lemons, which come in many shapes and sizes. This dish was originally created to highlight the large, high-quality Amalfi lemons with a slightly stubbly peel and brimming with seductive fragrance. Failing that, get the very best lemons you can — preferably ones with a thicker peel than that of the usual juice lemons. One possibility is the Meyer lemon from Northern California.

The portions for this dish make it a light primo (first course). If you want a fuller portion, double the amounts of the ingredients.

Ingredients for 4 Servings:

2 large lemons
½ pound (250 grams) tagliolini pasta, ideally De Cecco brand (or another birds nest pasta)
4 tablespoons (about 60 grams) unsalted butter
⅓ cup (80 milliliters) light cream
2 tablespoons (about 10 grams) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Pinch of minced fresh parsley
Salt to taste

Set a large pot of cold water to boil. Wash the lemons, carefully scrubbing the peel to remove any blemishes. Peel the lemons, cutting the rind into very thin strips. Squeeze all of the juice into a measuring cup. Remove any pits.

Once the water reaches a boil, toss in a pinch of salt. When the water returns to a boil, add the tagliolini and cook according to the package directions until al dente.

As the pasta cooks, melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet and then add the lemon juice and rind. Let it evaporate for 2 minutes, then add the cream and heat gently over low heat (do not boil).

When the tagliolini are cooked, drain well and add them to the pan. Top with cheese and parsley, toss quickly to combine the ingredients, salt to taste, and serve.

Suggested wine: A white such as Ravello, Ischia, or Lacrima Christi.

(Recipe courtesy of Fred Plotkin, co-authoor of Rick Steves Italy for Food Lovers book.)