Ten Tips for a Very Parisian Christmas

By Rick Steves
Pastry counter, Paris, France
For a tasty Christmas treat, sample the pastries at Paris' oldest pasty shop: Stohrer. (photo: Rick Steves)
Galeries Lafayette lit up for Christmas, Paris, France
The facade of Galeries Lafayette — a major department store — is decorated with thousands of lights at Christmastime. (photo: Rick Steves)

Paris celebrates Christmas with its typical urban flair: extravagant lighting, yummy window displays, and ice skating in the heart of the city. Here are 10 ways to have a "Joyeux Noël" in the City of Light...without breaking the bank.

Find a Christmas carousel. These seasonal merry-go-rounds (called maneges de Noël) pop up in every neighborhood in Paris. The biggies are at the Hôtel de Ville, Place Joffre near the Eiffel Tower, and at the base of the Sacré-Cœur Basilica in Montmartre — but more fun are the charming maneges in less touristy neighborhoods.

Lick a window. The French phrase for "window shopping" is lèche-vitrine — literally, "window licking." Big department stores compete with one another for the most fabulous window displays of animation and whimsy. French parents dress up their kids and come from all over the country to compare the windows of the three great Parisian department stores: Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Bon Marché. The first two stores also have illuminated "canvases" covering their facades with thousands of lights.

Ride a Ferris wheel. See Paris from a whole new angle — ride La Grande Roue at Place de la Concorde. It's best at night, when you soar more than 200 feet above floodlit Paris in one of 42 heated compartments.

Go for a pony ride. Take your children to Luxembourg Garden to ride the ponies (or, sometimes at Christmas, donkeys). If you're lucky enough to be there when the donkeys are, you can tell your children the Christmas story about a very pregnant Mary riding a donkey on the journey to Bethlehem with Joseph. And whether you have kids or not, the garden is a delightful place to watch Parisians at play.

Shop for chocolate. Buy your best friend a box of chocolates at La Maison du Chocolat, run by Robert Linxe, the high priest of Paris chocolate. Specialties include jewel-like bonbons with lemon, mint, and ginger-infused fillings. The lines go out the door at Christmastime, so allow plenty of time for your visit at one of his seven boutiques.

Cruise the Champs-Elysées. Bundle up, wander over to the Champs-Elysées, and walk the length of the boulevard, with its fairy forest of twinkling trees. Time it so that you can walk (or take the Métro) over to Place du Trocadéro in time to see the lights on the Eiffel Tower shimmer — on the hour for five minutes every night until midnight.

Eat more pastries. Indulge yourself with a Bûche de Noël (Yule Log) from the oldest pâtisserie in Paris. One day in 1725, Queen Marie Leszczynska, daughter of the king of Poland, stopped in Strasbourg on her way to Versailles to marry Louis XV and met a pastry chef named Nicolas Stohrer. She fell in love — not with the chef, but with his famous puits d'amour ("wells of love," cups of puff pastry filled with a rich, creamy custard). The queen offered him a job, and Stohrer packed up, opened up a pâtisserie in Paris five years later, and became famous. Even the Queen of England couldn't resist a stop at Stohrer's on a recent trip to Paris.

View the City of Light's lights. Seeing the City of Light floodlit during the holidays is one of Europe's great travel experiences. For less than the cost of two seats on a big bus tour, you can hire your own taxi at night and have a glorious hour of illuminated Paris. Try a circular route from Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower along the river and back.

Experience Paris on ice. Put on something chic and cozy. Then head for Paris' historic city hall (Hôtel de Ville) for some outdoor ice skating. Most rinks are free to use; you'll just pay to rent skates. For those who would rather be indoors, the landmark Grand Palais near the Champs-Elysées hosts one of the world's largest indoor skating rinks from mid-December to early January.

At Christmastime, the City of Light is as beautiful and seductive as ever. If you're thinking about traveling during the holidays, consider this French twist to the spirit of the season.