10 Great Seaside Bars in Europe
By Rick Steves
With all the intensity in our domestic and political worlds lately, it's a fine time for an escape — sunset glinting through the drink in your hand. Let's fantasize about 10 of my favorite seaside bars in Europe.
In Korčula, Croatia: Buffet Massimo, a youthful-feeling cocktail bar, fills a city-wall tower at the very tip of Korčula's Old Town peninsula. While drinks are also served indoors in the downstairs bar and the main-floor lounge, to enjoy your cocktail in the salty Adriatic air you've got to climb a ladder — right up through the ceiling — to reach the tower-top terrace.
In Istanbul, Turkey: The double-decker Galata Bridge spans the Golden Horn, a historic inlet that separates the old and new towns of Istanbul. And all along both the horn and the bridge, you'll find dozens of inviting, no-name bars. Find a place to nurse some Turkish specialties: Drink an unfiltered, highly caffeinated "Turkish coffee" (which leaves a thick coating of "mud" in the bottom) or a cup of tea, and suck on a water pipe filled with flavorful dried fruit.
In Salema, Portugal: Amid the concrete high-rise resorts on Portugal's southern coast, one bit of old Algarve magic still glitters quietly in the sun: Salema. This simple fishing village has three beachside streets, many restaurants, a few hotels, a couple of bars, a classic beach with a paved promenade, and endless sun. The Atlântico — right on the beach — is known for its fresh fish, fun drinks, friendly service, and a wonderful beachside terrace.
In Nerja, Spain: Chiringuito Ayo is famous for its character of an owner and its beachside all-you-can-eat paella feast at lunchtime. For decades, Ayo — a lovable ponytailed bohemian who promises to be here until he dies — has been feeding locals. The paella fires get stoked up at about noon. Grab one of many tables under the canopy next to the rustic, open-fire cooking zone, and enjoy the Burriana Beach setting with a jug of sangria.
In Villefranche-sur-Mer, France: In the glitzy world of the French Riviera, Villefranche-sur-Mer offers travelers an easygoing slice of small-town Mediterranean life. Luxury sailing yachts glisten in the bay — an inspiration to those lazing along the harborfront to start saving their money when their trips are over. Nautical-feeling Lou Bantry's blue and white tables and umbrellas sit right on the edge of the harbor — spill your rosé, and it's in the sea.
In Vernazza, Italy: Ristorante Belforte's tiny, four-table balcony lets you sip your vino della Cinque Terre overlooking the Mediterranean from the edge of a stony castle. You can feel the mist from the surf crashing below on the Vernazza breakwater. And the views of the ancient vineyard terracing all around you makes the experience a highlight.
In Conwy, Wales: This Welsh town, watched over by its protective castle, has a particularly charming harbor. On summer evenings, the action on the quay is mellow, multigenerational, and perfectly Welsh. Everyone is here enjoying the local cuisine — "chips," ice cream, and beer — and savoring that great British pastime: chasing little crabs. Facing the harbor, The Liverpool Arms pub was built by a captain in the 19th century. Today it remains a salty and characteristic hangout.
In Staithes, England: A ragamuffin village where the boy who became Captain James Cook got his first taste of the sea, Staithes is a salty jumble of cottages bunny-hopping down a ravine into a tiny harbor on the North Sea. There's nothing to do but stroll the beach and nurse a harborside beer or ice cream. The Cod and Lobster, overlooking the harbor, has scenic outdoor benches and a cozy living room warmed by a fire.
In Solvorn, Norway: Walaker Hotel, a former inn and coach station, has been run by the Walaker family since 1690 (that's a lot of pressure on ninth-generation owner Ole Henrik). The hotel, set right on the Lustrafjord, has a garden perfect for relaxing and, if necessary, even convalescing. I love to savor my coffee and dessert on the balcony with a fjordside setting — mesmerized by Norwegian mountains.
In Dubrovnik, Croatia: The Buža bar offers, without a doubt, the most scenic spot for a drink in Dubrovnik. Perched on a cliff above the sea, clinging like a barnacle to the outside of the city walls, this is a peaceful, shaded getaway from the bustle of the Old Town...the perfect place to watch cruise ships disappear into the horizon. "Buža" means "hole in the wall" — which is exactly what you have to go through to get to this place.
Skäl, santé, na zdravje, prost — and cheers! Europe is full of romantic waterfront spots to grab a drink and slow your pulse. Feel the breeze, smell the sea, and enjoy the cry of the gulls — it could turn out to be your ultimate European moment.