Italy’s Highlights

St. Mark's Basilica

Among Europe's churches, St. Mark's is peerless. From the outside, it's a riot of domes, columns, and statues, completely unlike the towering Gothic churches of northern Europe or the heavy Baroque of much of the rest of Italy. Inside is a decor of mosaics, colored marbles, and oriental treasures that's rarely seen elsewhere. The Christian symbolism is unfamiliar to Western eyes, done in the style of Byzantine icons and even Islamic designs. Older than most of Europe's churches, it feels like a remnant of a lost world. This is your best chance in Italy (outside of Ravenna) to glimpse a forgotten and somewhat mysterious part of the human story — Byzantium.

To avoid what is almost always a long line to get inside, reserve an entry time online (for busy times, slots can fill up weeks ahead).

Grand Canal by vaporetto

Take a joyride and introduce yourself to Venice by boat. Cruise the Canal Grande all the way to St. Mark's Square, starting at the train station (Ferrovia) or the bus station (Piazzale Roma). My guidebooks outline a stop-by-stop tour, as does my free audio tour of the canal.

Accademia Gallery

This museum houses the consummate Renaissance statue of the buff, biblical shepherd boy ready to take on the giant. But the Accademia doesn't stop there — with a handful of other Michelangelo statues and a few other interesting sights, it makes for an uplifting visit that isn't overwhelming. David, a must-see on any visit to Florence, is always mobbed with visitors. Book your entry time online at least two months in advance, and consider an evening visit, when it can be at least a little less busy inside.

I Fratellini

Here the "little brothers" have served peasants two dozen different kinds of sandwiches and a fine selection of wine at great prices since 1875. Join the local crowd to order, then sit on a nearby curb to eat, placing your glass on the wall rack before you leave (20 yards in front of Orsanmichele Church on Via dei Cimatori, +39 055 239 6096).

Uffizi Gallery

Start with Giotto's early stabs at Renaissance-style realism, then move on through the 3-D experimentation of the early 1400s to the real thing rendered by the likes of Botticelli and Leonardo. Finish off with Michelangelo and Titian. Because only 600 visitors are allowed inside the building at any one time, there's generally a very long wait (avoid this fate by booking at least a month in advance). The good news: no Vatican-style mob scenes inside, and the museum is nowhere near as big as it is great.

Ristorante al Castello

Perched on a covered terrace just below Vernazza's castle, this homey seafood restaurant offers commanding views out to sea. It's run by gracious, English-speaking Monica and her husband Massimo. Reserve ahead for one of the dozen romantic cliffside seaview tables for two — some of the tables snake around the castle, where you'll feel like you're eating all alone with the Mediterranean. Monica offers a free Sciacchetrà or limoncino with biscotti on request if you show up with my guidebook (+39 0187 812 296).

Basilica of St. Francis

The basilica rises where, in 1230, St. Francis was buried (with the outcasts he had stood by) outside of his town on the "Hill of the Damned" — now called the "Hill of Paradise." The basilica is frescoed from top to bottom with scenes by the leading artists of the day: Cimabue, Giotto, Simone Martini, and Pietro Lorenzetti. A 13th-century historian wrote, "No more exquisite monument to the Lord has been built." Modest dress is required to enter the church — no above-the-knee skirts or shorts and no sleeveless tops for men, women, or children.

Alma Civita

The sister-and-brother team of longtime residents Alessandra and Maurizio own this fresh, new take on old Civita (and also rent recommended rooms). Sit outside on a stony lane, in the romantic and trendy-feeling main-floor dining room, or in the equally modern but atmospheric cellar. They're proud to show off their wine cellar, which is even deeper in an old Etruscan tomb.

St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter's represents the power and splendor of Rome's 2,000-year domination of the Western world. Built on the memory and grave of the first pope, St. Peter, this is where the grandeur of ancient Rome became the grandeur of Christianity. Nothing needs advance booking here, but allow time to wait in a long line for the security check (line moves steadily, but aim to arrive when it's shortest — before 9:00 or after 16:00).

Vatican Museums

The four miles of displays in this immense museum complex — from ancient statues to Christian frescoes to modern paintings — culminate in the Raphael Rooms and Michelangelo's glorious Sistine Chapel. This is one of Europe's top three or four houses of art. It can be exhausting, so plan your visit carefully, focusing on a few themes. Allow two hours for a quick visit, three or four hours for enough time to enjoy it.

The Vatican Museums can be extremely crowded, with waits of up to two hours just to buy tickets. Bypass the long ticket lines by reserving an entry time online. It's easy – and it can change your day. Choose your day and time, then check your email for your confirmation and print out the voucher to present at the museum. While you can show your reservation on your mobile device, it feels safer to have a physical printout.

Campo de' Fiori

One of Rome's most colorful spots, this bohemian piazza hosts a fruit and vegetable market in the morning, cafés in the evening, and crowds of drunks late at night. In ancient times, the "Field of Flowers" was an open meadow. Later, Christian pilgrims passed through on their way to the Vatican, and a thriving market developed. The square is surrounded by fun eateries, great for people-watching. On weekend nights, when the Campo is packed with beer-drinking kids, the medieval square is transformed into one vast Roman street party.

Trajan's Column

The world's grandest column from antiquity anchors Trajan's Forum. The 140-foot column is decorated with a spiral relief of 2,500 figures trumpeting the emperor's exploits. It has stood for centuries as a symbol of a truly cosmopolitan civilization. At one point, the ashes of Trajan and his wife were held in the base, and the sun glinted off a polished bronze statue of Trajan at the top. (Today, St. Peter is on top.) The nearby Museum of the Imperial Forums, housed in buildings from Trajan's Market, features discoveries from the forums built by the different emperors.

Pantheon

For the greatest look at the splendor of Rome, antiquity's best-preserved interior is a must. Built two millennia ago, this influential domed temple served as the model for Michelangelo's dome of St. Peter's and many others. Engineers still admire how the Romans built such a mathematically precise structure without computers, fossil fuel-run machinery, or electricity. Stand under the Pantheon's solemn dome to gain a new appreciation for the sophistication of these ancient people.

Trevi Fountain

The fountain was built to celebrate the joyous reopening of several of ancient Rome's aqueducts — after surviving for 1,000 years on poor-quality well water, Romans could once again enjoy pure water brought from the distant hills east of the city. If you visit before 21:00, you'll likely need to wait in line to get down to the fountain's edge, as the number of visitors is limited to reduce crowding. Whenever you visit, be especially on guard for pickpockets, who thrive on the square and the streets leading to it.

Valley of the Temples Archaeological Park

The Valley of the Temples Archaeological Park lies just a little south of the modern town of Agrigento. While most tourists come just for a few hours to see the ancient site, those who stay the night in Agrigento can also enjoy the city's historic center. A good plan is to arrive by midday, tour the Pietro Griffo Archaeological Museum, then see the temples as it's cooling off and getting less crowded (the temples are open late and romantically illuminated after dark).

Ballarò Market

Of all the street markets in Palermo, Ballarò is the oldest, most authentic, and liveliest, stretching from Piazza Ballarò (a few blocks east of Palermo Cathedral) to the train station. A thousand years ago, when Palermo was still bounded by its now-underground rivers, this market was here with its singing merchants. The market's neighborhood is diverse and unpolished, with immigrant families squatting in dilapidated buildings a few steps off the main shopping street…real-life Palermo. It's best to wear sturdy shoes on the broken pavement. While a visit here is not dangerous, pay close attention to your belongings.

See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks.

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Hey, I'm Rick Steves…back with more of the best of Europe. What's my favorite country? Well, I've shot 18 episodes in Italy over the years, and you're about to see why. This the best of Italy. Thanks for joining us.

The more I know Italy, the more I love it. It comes with the complete package — great art, awe-inspiring history, some of the tastiest food anywhere, and of course, plenty of dolce vita.

Revisiting some of our favorite Italian stops, we travel from top to bottom of this California-sized peninsula. We start in Venice, then visit Florence, the best of the Italian Riviera, my favorite hill towns in Tuscany and Umbria, Rome, Naples with the Amalfi Coast, and finish in Sicily. Hold on to your raviolis!

Our first stop: Venice — one of Europe's best-preserved historic cities, a mighty maritime power in its day, and for centuries a favorite of romantics.

Venice, more than any other European city, has a seductive charm. There's no place like it. For centuries it was nicknamed "La Serenissima": the most serene place.

Its main square, Piazza San Marco — with its grand Doge's Palace and Basilica of St. Mark, capped by its towering campanile — was for centuries the most powerful couple of acres in all of Europe. Like a grand boulevard, its Grand Canal winds through a city lined with once-mighty palazzos.

The Doge's Palace — the ruling center and residence of Venice's dukes — was built to show off the power and wealth of the Republic and to remind visitors that Venice was number one. Its lacy exterior, a distinct blend of east and west, is proudly Venetian Gothic.

Next door, the Basilica of St. Mark was built in a distinctly Eastern style. Its domes and elaborate exterior remind us of the trading power's close ties with the Greek, Byzantine, and Muslim worlds.

The interior glitters with its gold-leaf mosaic work. The remains of St. Mark lie beneath the golden altarpiece. A medieval masterpiece, its stunning golden wall of 250 painted enamels features prophets and saints, and, at its center: Jesus, as the ruler of the cosmos.

The city is actually a car-free maze of about 100 islands, laced together by several hundred bridges and a vast web of alleys and canalside walkways. With a shrinking population and in a state of elegant decay, Venice survives on the artificial respirator of tourism.

Survey the city by cruising the Grand Canal on a boat called a vaporetto. These work like city buses except that they never get a flat, the stops are docks, and if you get off between stops, you'll drown.

Venice is romantico — a great place to fall in love, enjoy a honeymoon, or a special anniversary. Visiting here, many feel that they're experiencing beauty, people, and even life itself at a more intense level.

Savvy travelers leave the center and explore. Walk and walk to the far reaches of the town. Don't worry about getting lost. Keep reminding yourself, "I'm on an island, and I can't get off."

Worst-case scenario? You run out of island, take a moment to study your map, and you get to enjoy a nice drink.

On this blitz tour of Italy, we'll be connecting all of our stops by handy train rides.

A couple hours south of Venice is Florence — the epicenter of the Italian Renaissance. That was the cultural explosion that, 500 years ago, helped pull Europe out of the Middle Ages and into modern times.

Visitors gaze into the eyes of Michelangelo's David, enjoy Botticelli's Birth of Venus, delve into the 3D wonders of Ghiberti's glorious bronze gates, and appreciate Fra Angelico's serene beauty. And the cathedral features a beloved bell tower and a chance to climb the dome that kicked off the Renaissance…for a view you'll never forget.

Florence was long an economic powerhouse. Rather than its church, it's the city hall — once the palace of the Medici family — that towers over the main square. Michelangelo's David originally stood here — this is a copy.

The original David is now the centerpiece of the nearby Accademia Gallery, which feels like a temple to humanism. At its altar stands one very impressive human.

The shepherd boy, David, sizes up the giant. Thoughtful and self-assured, he seems to be thinking, "I can take this guy." This statue was an apt symbol, inspiring Florentines to tackle their Goliaths.

I'm meeting my Florentine friend Tommaso at i Fratellini — a venerable hole-in-the-wall much loved among locals for its tasty sandwiches and wine sold by the glass.

Tommaso: Grazi. Thank you. And when you are done, you leave it on the rack.

Rick: Boy, it's intense in the city.
Tommaso: Yes, it is. Well, if you want to leave the tourists let's cross the river and let's go to where the real Florentines live and work.
Rick: Where's that?
Tommaso: The Oltrarno area!

There's much more to this town than tourism, as you'll quickly learn in the characteristic back lanes of the Oltrarno district. Artisans, busy at work, offer an opportunity to see traditional craftsmanship in action.

You're welcome to just drop in to little shops — but remember, it's polite to greet the proprietor. Your key phrase is "Posso guardare?" ("Can I take a look?")

Rick: Posso guardare?
Artisan: Certo! [Sure!]
Rick: Grazie!

Here in this city of art there's no shortage of treasures in need of a little TLC.

The Ponte Vecchio, or Old Bridge, has been busy with shoppers since before the Renaissance. Jewelry is a Florentine specialty. The bridge is lined with gold and silver shops — a tradition that goes back centuries.

And for art lovers, you can't miss the finest collection of Italian paintings anywhere — the Uffizi Gallery. The Uffizi's collection, displayed on one comfortable floor, takes you on a sweep through Italian art history from the 12th through the 17th century.

In the Renaissance — as in the ancient world — people saw the glory of God in the beauty, order, and harmony of the human body, God's greatest creation. Classical statues clearly inspired Sandro Botticelli. For me, his Birth of Venus is the Uffizi's purest expression of Renaissance beauty. The goddess of love, born from the foam of a wave, is just waking up.

Botticelli combines the beauty of nature and the human body — the hands, wings, and robe mingle with the wind. With Venus' flyaway hair, the airy spaciousness of the distant horizon, and the flowers — caught at the peak of their beauty, tumbling in slow motion — the world itself is fresh and newborn.

After all those urban thrills, I'm ready for a little break. That's why we're heading for a delightful slice of the Italian Riviera.

The Cinque Terre is five little towns — beautifully isolated in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera.

As if designed for good times, you can explore the region's rugged little ports, follow a wine train high into the vineyards, make pesto in its birthplace, dive from spectacular cliffs, and hike — soaking up more sun and scenery than you can imagine.

The Cinque Terre, which means "five lands," was originally described in medieval times as "the five castles." Tiny communities like this grew up in the protective shadows of their stony castles — their people ready to run for refuge at the first hint of a Turkish pirate raid.

As the threat of pirates faded, the communities grew with economies based on fish, olives, and grapes. Today, the big employer is tourism. Each rustic town is a variation on the same theme: a well-whittled pastel jumble of homes filling its ravine. These days the castles, which used to protect the towns from marauding pirates, guard only glorious views.

This 10-kilometer stretch of coastline is the rugged alternative to the glitzy Riviera resorts nearby. The traffic-free charm is a happy result of its natural isolation. Just sun, sea, sand — well, pebbles — and people. For me, this is Italy at its most relaxed.

For a home base, choose among the five villages. The most popular: Vernazza, where the big news is the hourly arrival of the train bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors into town. There's one main street — it runs from its train station down to the sea. Of the five towns, Vernazza has the closest thing to a natural harbor.

The old castle no longer says "stay away." Instead, it seems to welcome people-packed excursion boats. Settle into a comfy spot on the breakwater. Study the arrangement man and nature have carved out here over the last 15 centuries. Crumpled hills come with topographical lines: a terraced, green bouquet of cactus, grapevines, and olive trees blanketing the surrounding hills.

Today, the castle functions as a tourist lookout…and a restaurant [Ristorante al Castello]. And the fort's lowest deck is perfect for a romantic meal. For a sweet dessert wine, sip the local sciacchetrà. It's served with biscotti — ideal for dunking. Savor the view and the unforgettable setting.

Italy's Cinque Terre is an irresistible mix of nature, culture, and human activity — well-worn locals, sunburned travelers, and inviting family-friendly piazzas. Sure, the place is now well-discovered. But I've never seen happier, more laid-back tourists. While the Cinque Terre now endures the storms of the modern world, the region's charms are as endearing as its people are resilient.

From Riviera beaches to central Italian hill towns, trains scenically connect the dots.

For many, the quintessence of Italy is found in the regions of Tuscany and Umbria. That's where feisty little towns were perched on hills for safety in centuries past. Today, each hill town comes with reminders of a hard-fought history, a rich culture, and enduring traditions.

And there are many hill towns to choose from: Siena maintains much of its medieval character. Its sprawling main square and towering city hall recall the days when it rivaled even Florence.

Assisi — with its walls, gates, and castle — was home to St. Francis. Its massive basilica remains a favorite destination for countless pilgrims today.

Volterra was an Etruscan capital centuries before Christ. Within its ancient wall, the town's rustic center offers an evocative Tuscan charm.

San Gimignano, with its prickly skyline, stands like a medieval mirage on its hilltop. Of the original 60 or so towers, about a dozen survive. Back before there was a strong central government, rich people fortified their own homes with towers like these.

And the country of San Marino — all 24 square miles of it — is unique in that it's still independent. While novel today, tiny two-bit dukedoms like this were once the norm.

Medieval Italy — like most of Europe before the rise of modern nation-states — was a collection of independent little San Marino–type city-states — many of them were just fortified towns on hills.

The good traveler can still discover magic hill town moments. Civita di Bagnoregio, perched on its pinnacle in a grand canyon, is a classic, if tiny, Italian hill town.

Entering the town, you're enveloped in history. Passing under a 12th-century arch, you enter another world. Every lane tells a story — especially if you poke around, and talk to people.

Maurizio: Come Rick, I want to show you my mill.

The olive mill Maurizio's grandfather once ran is now the centerpiece of his restaurant [Alma Civita], and he's happy to tell me how Grandpa made the olive oil…and how that olive oil helps make an unforgettable bruschetta.

Maurizio: You have a good extra-virgin olive oil and you're ready for a big bruschetta.

A good bruschetta is simple: bread toasted over the coals, garlic, tomatoes, salt, and oil. Enjoying a rustic bruschetta is a fine way to cap a visit to a rustic village like Civita di Bagnoregio.

Up next, we're heading from the charms of small-town Italy to the monumentality of the Eternal City.

Rome, the historic and political capital of Italy, is a city of layers. You'll find ancient Roman grandeur, Renaissance splendor, Baroque razzle-dazzle, Vatican mystique, and today's modern Italy, so in love with life.

In its glory days, the word "Rome" meant not just the city but what Romans considered the entire civilized world.

There's history everywhere here in the city of the Caesars. The Colosseum reminds us of ancient pageantry and gladiators. Monuments like Trajan's Column boosted imperial egos. Statues show how emperors were worshipped as gods on earth. The Pantheon, Rome's temple to all the gods — with my favorite skylight anywhere — inspired future ages to great domes of their own.

And, since ancient times, for 1,700 years now, pilgrims — believing Jesus climbed these very stairs on the day he was condemned — have scaled the Scala Santa on their knees.

While Rome's many churches are busy with people, they're also busy with art. Pop into just about any church and every inch is slathered with Baroque-style ornamentation — oh-wow spiral columns framing scenes that almost come to life, cupids doing flip flops, and ceilings opening up into the heavens.

Lodged in the heart of Rome, Vatican City is the spiritual capital of over a billion Roman Catholics. It's built on the memory and grave of the first pope, St. Peter. And its centerpiece: St. Peter's Basilica.

This most glorious church in Christendom is huge — 600 feet long, bathed in sunbeams. It can accommodate thousands of worshippers. The ornamental cherubs dwarf a large man. As a tour guide, I've lost entire groups in here.

The adjacent Vatican Museum[s] — its miles of hallways sumptuously decorated with precious tapestries, dramatic frescoes, and ancient statues — leads to the Sistine Chapel, with its beloved ceiling frescoed by Michelangelo.

Rome is a city of neighborhoods…and gathering places for people who call it home, like the Campo de' Fiori. Literally the "field of flowers," this has long been a fragrant and vibrant market. The market thrives in the morning. What's seasonal during your visit will be favored by local chefs and featured on their daily menus. We're here in May — and it's punterelle, asparagus, and artichokes.

After dark, Rome takes on yet another personality. And a short walk laces together its top nightspots. Back at Campo de' Fiori the artichokes and tomatoes are packed away and the social streetlamps are turned on. These characteristic lanes, even late at night, feel safe and friendly.

The nearby Piazza Navona is a carnival 365 nights a year. While this oblong square got its shape from a long‑gone ancient stadium, today, the games are limited to browsing and flirting around its famous Bernini fountain.

Just down the street is the floodlit Pantheon. It looms high above our 21st century, as if aching to tell its story — 2,000 years of Roman history. And at the same time, it provides a venerable backdrop for al fresco diners.

And the Trevi Fountain, a bubbly Baroque avalanche dating from the 1700s, seems purpose-built for today's Roman embrace of life. With history, art, and people perpetually partying under the stars, it's no wonder people come here in droves for the promise that a coin tossed over the shoulder will assure their return to this Eternal City. That may sound silly, but every year I go through the ritual…and it works!

I like to say, if you're enjoying the urban intensity of Italy as far south as Rome, go further south — it just gets better. Italy intensifies as you plunge deeper.

Naples, southern Italy's leading city, is as intense an urban scene as anything you'll find in western Europe — yet it still somehow manages to breathe, laugh, and sing…with a captivating Italian accent.

You name it, it occurs right on the streets today, as it has for centuries. Kids turn a wide spot in the sidewalk into a soccer field. Walls are crusty with posters and death announcements. Neighborly chit-chat and heated arguments take place curbside. Plastic buckets help grandma do business with the delivery boy. It's a cauldron of community as everyone's out and about. And fast food? It comes in the form of a folded pizza.

Just south of Naples, along a breathtaking coastline, you'll find trendy resort towns, ancient ruins, and enchanting getaways. From Sorrento — wedged on a ledge under the mountains and over the sea — you can take a cruise to the seductive isle of Capri, with its romantic Blue Grotto.

Then, drive the dramatic Amalfi Coast. The drive south from Sorrento is one of the world's great road trips. Cantilevered hotels and villas cling to the vertical terrain. And beautiful sandy coves tease from far below. As you hyperventilate, notice how the Mediterranean really twinkles.

For our finale — it's Sicily, the island off the south end of the Italian peninsula. It's famed for its ancient temples, its tasty food, and its bella chaos — the beautiful chaos of Sicily.

Over the last 2,500 years, the island of Sicily's been ruled by Greeks…Romans…Arabs…Normans…then Spaniards before becoming part of Italy. The island's complicated past makes it distinct from the rest of Italy. It's got its own cuisine, a uniquely festive lifestyle — and people who are Sicilian first and Italians second.

It all combines for a full-bodied and tasty travel experience.

The ancient city of Agrigento is the most impressive ancient site in Sicily, its ridge [the somewhat misnamed Valley of the Temples] lined with Greek temples. It was a religious ensemble: about a dozen temples, for a dozen gods, each serving a different role. Here at Agrigento, you were fully covered. And of all those temples, the Temple of Concordia is the best preserved.

Cefalù is Sicily's most romantic port town. With a golden crescent beach and sitting safely under its dramatic rock — still capped by a fortress — Cefalù cradles its past in a way that's easy to enjoy. Since the town was founded, its streets have lined up with the prevailing wind to catch the cooling breeze. To this day, laundry flaps in that breeze.

And Palermo is Sicily's main city and historic capital — a busy port corralled by mountains. A noisy and energetic metropolis, its architecture reflects the rule of its many overlords as well as its rich heritage. Walking the lively streets, you're surrounded by a scruffy elegance. It's a city that invites exploration.

You feel Palermo's boisterous spirit in its markets. [shown here: Ballarò Market] Wander among a commotion of stalls, all competing for the buyer's attention. It's an entertaining scene complete with singing salesmen.

Whether you understand the lyrics or not, this slice of life market action is some of the best in Europe.

Whether you want bella chaos in the market, tranquility in the countryside, inspiration in the museums, or just a romantic perch to ponder it all, Italy is popular for good reason.

Italy seems made to order for our travel dreams. And in this greatest-hits tour, we've only scratched the surface of its cultural, artistic, and edible delights. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on travelin'. Ciao!