Underappreciated Belgium Packs Plenty of Surprises

Mussel Eaters at Restaurant, Brussels, Belgium
When in Brussels, chow down on mussels.
For Old World small-town beauty, it's hard to beat cobbled and canal-laced Bruges.
By Rick Steves

Nestled between the powerhouses of Germany, France and Britain, and with little in the way of blockbuster sights, its no wonder many travelers don't even consider a stop in Belgium. But as many who visit remark, Belgium is one of Europe's best kept secrets. There are tourists here, but not as many as the country's charms merit.

Despite its small size, Belgium is diverse. It's divided — linguistically, culturally, and politically — between French-speaking Wallonia in the south and Dutch-speaking Flanders in the north, with bilingual Brussels in between. ("Flemish," the Dutch spoken in Belgium, is even more guttural than textbook Dutch — insert your own "phlegmish" pun here.) And, because of its international business and political connections, more than 25 percent of its residents are foreigners who speak English as their common language.

Belgium is at the crossroads of Western Europe, where Romance languages meet the German world, and where the Protestant north meets the Catholic south. It was born as a merchant entity in medieval times (c. 1300–1500), when energetic traders made it one of Europe's richest, most cosmopolitan, and sophisticated lands. On the other hand — located as it is in the cross fire between larger powers — it's also been Europe's battlefield. From Charlemagne to Napoleon, from the Austrian Habsburgs to Germany in two world wars, this country has paid a heavy price.

But tiny Belgium has survived by producing savvy businesspeople and excellent linguists, and by welcoming new trends. I recently asked a local, "What is a Belgian?" He said, "We are a melting pot. We're a mix culturally: one-third English for our sense of humor, one-third French for our love of culture and good living, and one-third German for our work ethic." Yet on a beautiful spring day, it might seem like nobody here has a job — they're all at sidewalk cafés drinking beer in the sunshine.

Belgians brag they eat as much as the Germans and as well as the French. They are the world's leading beer consumers and among the world's leading carnivores. With your meat you'll get a pile of Europe's best fries.

With nearly 900 people per square mile, Belgium is the second most densely populated country in Europe (after the Netherlands). When viewed from space, Belgium shines at night as a single patch of light — a phenomenon NASA astronauts call the "Belgian Window."

Belgium flies the flag of Europe more vigorously than any other place on the Continent. It was in Brussels where the "Benelux" union was established in 1944, planting the seed that today is sprouting into the unification of Europe. Brussels is one of Europe's great cities, and there's a palpable feeling here of being at the center of global events.

Bruges is my other top pick for the best first bite of Belgium. It's one of Europe's medieval gems, a wonderfully preserved town which expertly nurtures its tourist industry, which brings it prosperity like it hasn't enjoyed since it helped lead northern Europe out of the middle ages, 500 years ago. But travelers with an extra few days and a taste for funky urbanity should carve out time for up-and-coming Antwerp and/or Ghent as well.

Under a new king (and his young family), the country is on the rise, and it's kick-started gentrification throughout the country. With a thousand years of history behind it, Belgium seems poised to write a new chapter in its long and illustrious tale.