Guidebook Updates for ‘Rick Steves Eastern Europe’

When we learn of critical changes to the information in our Eastern Europe guidebook, we post them here. (Of course, it's still smart to reconfirm critical transportation and sightseeing details locally.) Armed with a Rick Steves guidebook and these late-breaking updates, you're set for a great trip!

Across Croatia

For books printed before January 2018, the following may apply:

  • In summer (mid-June–mid-Sept), Jadrolinija and Krilo are now running fast catamarans on the Split–Hvar–Korčula–Dubrovnik route.
  • The European Coastal Airlines seaplane did not run in 2017, and service is unlikely to resume in the future.

Auschwitz-Birkenau

For books printed before July 2017, the following may apply:

  • Visitors to Auschwitz I can no longer tour the site on their own during the busiest times (April–Oct 10:00–15:00). If you're there during those hours you'll need to pay 45 zł extra to join a required organized tour. (Auschwitz II, a.k.a. Birkenau, still allows individual visits during all opening hours.)
  • Required reservations for entry-time slots to the memorial can fill up months ahead, so book as early as you can commit to a date. If your date is booked up, you have a few options: Book a slot on a foreign-language tour (then split off, seeing the site on your own with the self-guided tour in our guidebook); pay for an excursion through a Kraków-based tour operator (often available up to the day before; consider SeeKrakow, DiscoverCracow, or Cracow City Tours); or try just showing up at the memorial, in which case you'll want to arrive as early as possible (on busy days, try to arrive by 9:00 — keeping in mind that Auschwitz is 1.5 hours from Kraków).

Bratislava

For books printed before July 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The city's tram system is up and running again, with shiny new trams. But since they just skirt the Old Town, most travelers won't find them convenient for connecting either train station with the center of town or most recommended hotels (except for Hotel Marrol's, which is near the Šafárikovo Námestie stop on tram #1 from the main train station).
  • The city's cathedral is now free to enter, but you'll pay a small fee to visit the treasury and/or choir.
  • Several locations of the fun Štúr café chain have closed, but the one near Eurovea at Štúrova 8 remains open.

For books printed before May 2015, the following may also apply:

  • The Mahart hydrofoil boats between Vienna and Budapest no longer stop in Bratislava.

Budapest

  • A new and convenient airport shuttle bus operated by the city is now running from the airport to Déak tér in downtown Budapest.
  • The Mahart line boat between Budapest and Vienna is no longer running.

For books printed before March 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The Applied Arts Museum is closed for renovation work that may extend into 2020.
  • The Great Synagogue now offers only one ticket option. Tickets cost 4,000 Ft and include access to the synagogue, Memorial Garden, and Hungarian Jewish museum, plus permission to take photos and a tour of the synagogue.
  • There is no longer an overnight train option between Budapest and Berlin.

For books printed before July 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The Alexandra Bookstore and its Lotz Café have permanently closed.

Dubrovnik & nearby

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • There is no longer a left-luggage office in Cavtat.

For books printed before January 2018, the following may also apply:

  • In summer (mid-June–mid-Sept), Jadrolinija and Krilo are now running fast catamarans on the Split–Hvar–Korčula–Dubrovnik route.
  • The European Coastal Airlines seaplane did not run in 2017, and service is unlikely to resume in the future.

Eger

For books printed before May 2015, the following may apply:

  • Much of the city center — including the main square and castle area — is currently undergoing major renovation works, making it difficult to access some of Eger's sights.
  • Casa della Pasta, above the market hall at Katona István tér 2, is now known as "Elefanto."

Gdańsk

For books printed before August 2018, the following may apply:

  • The European Solidarity Center is now closed on Tuesdays in winter (open May–Sept Mon–Fri 10:00–19:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–20:00; Oct–April Mon and Wed–Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–18:00, closed Tue). Regular admission now costs 20 zł.

Hvar

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • In summer (mid-June–mid-Sept), Jadrolinija and Krilo are now running fast catamarans on the Split–Hvar–Korčula–Dubrovnik route.
  • The European Coastal Airlines seaplane did not run in 2017, and service is unlikely to resume in the future.

Istria

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • Rovinj: Trevisol Apartments has closed.
  • The European Coastal Airlines seaplane did not run in 2017, and service is unlikely to resume in the future.

For books printed before November 2017, the following may also apply:

Julian Alps

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • Apartmaji Lia in Korbarid has closed.

Korčula

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • In summer (mid-June–mid-Sept), Jadrolinija and Krilo are now running fast catamarans on the Split–Hvar–Korčula–Dubrovnik route.
  • The European Coastal Airlines seaplane did not run in 2017, and service is unlikely to resume in the future.
  • Apartments Lenni has new owners and is now called M&J Central Suites. The new contact info is mobile +385 (0)98-160-9644, mjcentralsuites@yahoo.com.
  • Hotel Korčula has a new phone number: +385 (0)20/726-900.

For books printed before November 2017, the following may also apply:

  • Tickets for the Nona Ana catamaran can — and should — now be booked online, ideally at least a day or two ahead (or even farther out, in peak season, as boats can sell out at busy times).
  • Anka Portolan is no longer renting rooms.
  • Nonno restaurant has moved to the other side of the Old Town (on the eastern seawall), and has raised their prices dramatically (so we no longer recommended it).

Kraków

For books printed before July 2017, the following may apply:

Lake Bled

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • Tito's Vila Bled is no longer open to the public.

Ljubljana

  • There are new direct trains running twice daily between Ljubljana and Trieste (one of which continues on to Trieste Airport and Udine). Travelers can easily transfer to regional and Freccia trains further on towards Venice and Milan. The existing Slovenian services to Villa Opicina remain, with local buses to Trieste now conveniently stopping at the train station, eliminating the need to walk into the village to catch a bus to Trieste Centrale.
  • In addition to Flixbus and GoOpti, Slovenian bus operator Nomago has launched new services from Ljubljana to both Venice Marco Polo and Treviso airports.

For books printed before July 2018, the following may also apply:

  • An extensive renovation of the City Museum of Ljubljana is planned for 2018.
  • The number for Intertours taxi is +386 (0)9704080-311-311 or +386 (0)31-311-311.
  • B&B Petra Varl has a new phone number: +386 (0)41-389-470.

For books printed before December 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The National and University Library's reading room is now open to the public on Saturday afternoons (14:30–18:00) year-round (€2).
  • The Emonec launderette no longer serves the general public, but is now available only to guests of the Hotel Emonec.
  • Pri Vitezu restaurant has closed.

For books printed before July 2017, the following may also apply:

Mostar & nearby

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

Prague

  • The Museum of Communism has moved to the Old Customs House, and admission has increased to 290 Kč (V Celnici 1301, entrance on Republic Square/Náměstí Republiky between Billa supermarket and Kolkovna restaurant).
  • The Image Theater has moved to the city center at Narodni 25.

For books printed before March 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Alfons Mucha's Slav Epic is back in the Czech Republic following its Japan tour, but does not seem to be on display yet. Part of it will be in the Municipal House July 17–Oct 31, 2018, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the founding of Czechoslovakia.
  • The Čedaz minibus shuttle from the airport is no longer running. Instead, try Prague Airport Transfers, which offers shuttle and taxi service.

For books printed before July 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The combo-ticket covering National Gallery sights now costs 500-Kč (still valid for seven days). Individual tickets are once again available at the following prices: 220 Kč each for the Museum of Medieval Art, Sternberg Palace, and Schwarzenberg Palace; 150 Kč for Kinsky Palace, and 250 Kč for Veletržní Palace.

For books printed before April 2017, the following may also apply:

  • Tram routes (including #24) have changed, and several new lines have been added. For more information and a route planner in English, check www.dpp.cz.
  • The Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova Synagóga) has reopened after a renovation. Purchase tickets at the information center at Maiselova 15 (near the intersection with Siroka street).

Split & nearby

For books printed before July 2018, the following may apply:

  • Konoba Matejuška restaurant has moved across the street to Tomića Stine 4 and changed its name to "Konoba Fetivi."
  • Paradigma restaurant has closed.
  • The Splitcard is no longer free, even for those staying in town for three nights. It is no longer a good value.
  • Krka National Park now requires all visitors to follow a one-way route around the park. Those coming by boat have to first hike steeply uphill to the "ethno village," then circle back down to the waterfalls (rather than shortcutting to the waterfalls).
  • In summer (mid-June–mid-Sept), Jadrolinija and Krilo are now running fast catamarans on the Split–Hvar–Korčula–Dubrovnik route.

For books printed before November 2017, the following may also apply:

Vienna

For books printed before March 2018, the following may also apply:

For books printed before April 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The restaurant called Beisl zum Scherer has closed.
  • Hotel Schweizerhof has closed.
  • The Kunst Haus Wien (Hundertwasser museum) now closes daily at 18:00.

Warsaw

  • Solec 44 restaurant has closed.