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Guidebook Updates for ‘Rick Steves Scandinavia’

When we learn of critical changes to the information in our Scandinavia guidebook, we post them here. (Of course, it's still smart to reconfirm critical transportation and sightseeing details locally.) Armed with a Rick Steves guidebook and these late-breaking updates, you're set for a great trip!

Across Scandinavia

Ærø

  • In Ærøskøbing, the Den Gamle Købmandsgaard market is now open daily.
  • In Ærøskøbing, Ærø Campground has a new email: aeroecamping@gmail.com.
  • In Ærøskøbing, Pension Vestergade has a new email: contact@vestergade44.com.
  • In Ærøskøbing, the Ærø Museum has reopened following renovations. Its new hours are July-Aug Mon-Fri 10:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-15:00; Sept-June Mon-Sat 11:00-15:00, closed Sun
  • The Hans Christian Andersen Museum has reopened after renovations at Claus Bergs Gade 11. It's now part of a 145-DKK one-day combo-ticket for adults that also includes Andersen's birthplace, childhood home, the Møntergården Museum, and the Fyrtøjet Children's Universe activity center (all sights free for kids under 18). All sights have a new website: www.hcandersensodense.dk.
  • The Fyrtøjet ("Tinderbox" Children's Universe) has reopened after renovations at the Møntergården Museum. It's now part of a 145-DKK one-day combo-ticket for adults that also includes the Hans Christian Andersen Museum, Andersen's birthplace, childhood home, and the Møntergården Museum (all sights free for kids under 18).
  • In Ærøskøbing, Arnfeldt Hotel now rents five rooms, two with en suite bathrooms, and three sharing two bathrooms. They also have a new email address: mail@arnfeldthotel.dk, and a restaurant (open Fri–Sat in June and Aug; July Tue–Sat).

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Det Lille Hotel in Ærøskøbing has new owners and is now called the Arnfeldt Hotel. The hotel has new contact information: +45 62 52 23 00, ma@arnfeldtgroup.com.

Bergen

  • Lido Restaurant is closed.
  • Dickens restaurant has closed permanently.
  • The correct website for Marken Gjestehus is www.marken-gjestehus.com.
  • The correct email address for Thon Hotel Rosenkrantz is rosenkrantz@olavthon.no.
  • The correct email address for Citybox Bergen City is bergen@citybox.no.
  • KODE 4 — one building of the KODE Art Museums hosting an eclectic cross-section of both international and Norwegian artists — is closed for maintenance until further notice.
  • The shuttle bus that ran from the Hanseatic Museum to the Fisheries Museum has stopped running. To link the two, it's an easy 15-20-minute walk or a 20-minute ferry ride. Buses also connect the two museums in 5 minutes.
  • The Bergen Card now covers the Norwegian Fisheries Museum and gives you 20 percent off the admission price at the Schøtstuene (Hanseatic Assembly Rooms).
  • Bergen YMCA Hostel has permanently closed.
  • Anne Madam Restaurant has closed.
  • The Bryggens Museum reopens on June 18 with a new exhibition and new hours through August — daily 10:00–16:00 — with shorter hours in the off-season; admission is now 100 kr.
  • Most of the Hanseatic Museum on the Bryggen harborfront is closed for restoration until at least spring 2024. The Schøtstuene (Hanseatic Assembly Rooms) part of the exhibit, however, has reopened with new exhibits covering Hanseatic life and the history of Bryggen, as well as a medieval ruin visible through a newly installed glass floor (daily 10:00–18:00, until 17:00 May and Sept; 11:00–15:00 Oct–Dec).
  • The correct email address for Thon Hotel Orion is orion@olavthon.no.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The telephone number for train information for Norway in a Nutshell, Oslo, and Bergen routes is +47 61 05 19 10 – press 9 for English.

For books printed before February 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Travelers arriving at or departing from the newly remodeled Flesland Airport have the option of taking the Bybanen tram to/from the city center. Ticket machines will work with a US credit card plus PIN (45 minutes, 37 kr).
  • The White Lady harbor tour boat is no longer running.
  • Thon Hotel Bergen Brygge has been renamed Thon Hotel Orion.
  • Skansen Pensjonat near the Fløibanen funicular station has closed.
  • Peppes Pizza has closed its restaurants near the Fish Market and Hanseatic Museum and moved to Olav Kyrres Gate 11.
  • The Kjøttbasaren food hall has closed.
  • Söstrene Hagelin Fast Fish Joint has moved to Strandgaten 3.
  • Kafe Magdalena has changed its name to Krohnhagen Café and moved to Kong Oscars Gate 54.

For books printed before November 2017, the following may also apply:

  • St. Mary's Church (Mariakirken) has reopened for services and sightseeing (50 kr) after an extensive restoration.

For books printed before April 2017, the following may also apply:

Copenhagen & nearby

  • The Maritime Museum of Denmark, near Kronborg, is now closed Monday between Sept–June.
  • Kronborg Castle is now closed Monday between Oct–April.
  • Roskilde Cathedral has new hours: June–Aug Mon–Sat 10:00–18:00, Sun 13:00–16:00; May & Sept Mon–Sat until 17:00; Oct–April Tue–Sat 10:00–16:00, Sun from 13:00, closed Monday.
  • Copenhagen Jazz House is now called Alice.
  • Shuttle buses from the Oslo ferry terminal to the city are now marked Banegård or Nørreport. The Banegård bus drops you at Banegårdspladsen — in front of the main train station, near Tivoli, recommended hotels, and the start of Rick's "Copenhagen City Walk."
  • The overnight boat to Oslo now leaves at 14:00, usually arriving in Oslo at 9:00 (same schedule for return trip).
  • Both the Amalienborg Museum and Rosenborg Castle are now closed Monday except in October.
  • Thorvaldsen’s Museum is now open Thursday until 21:00.
  • English tours of the National Museum's Victorian Apartment are now June–Aug, Sat–Sun at 12:00.
  • The National Museum is now open until 20:00 on Thursdays.
  • Due to changes to the bus system, buses #14, #1A and #6A are no longer useful.
  • Daily City Walks by Red Badge Guides now runs May–Sept at 10:00. The price has increased to 150 DKK.
  • The Museum of Copenhagen has reopened (90 DKK, Wednesday is free — expect crowds; daily 9:00–18:00, Thursday until 21:00, 18 Stormgade).
  • Richard Karpen no longer leads scheduled Monday and Thursday Rosenborg Castle group tours (though you can still book him for Rosenborg Castle tours by reservation, copenhagenwalks@yahoo.com). His Hans Christian Andersen Tours also still run mid-May–mid-Sept Mon–Sat at 9:30.
  • The National Museum now charges 95 DKK for admission.
  • The Carlsberg brewery visitors center is closed for renovation until 2020, as the entire former brewery complex is being transformed into a new neighborhood called Carlsberg City (Carlsberg Byen), with a hotel, restaurants, shops, housing, and public spaces, while preserving and repurposing some of the historic Carlsberg structures.
  • The Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde is now covered by the Copenhagen Card sightseeing pass.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Bus #11A is no longer running, and bus #5C (not #5A) connects the station to Nørreport. Pick up the Bus, Train & Metro Guide map at the tourist information office or check www.rejseplanen.dk for options.
  • The two-zone klippekort transit ticket is no longer available, and it is no longer necessary to stamp tickets at yellow boxes; instead passengers should be prepared to show tickets to bus drivers and train personnel.
  • Noma restaurant has reopened in its new location, and no longer accepts phone reservations — but be sure to reserve online (open for lunch and dinner Wed–Sat, northeast of Opera House at Nefshalevej 96).
  • The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek art gallery is now free on Tuesdays (not Sundays), and is open until 22:00 on Thursdays.
  • Sankt Annæ B&B has closed.
  • Café Sommersko has closed.
  • Bastionen & Løven restaurant has closed.
  • Kødbyens Deli has closed.
  • Jensen’s Bøfhus restaurant has closed.
  • Skildpadden restaurant has closed.
  • Andersen Bakery has closed.
  • City Public Hostel has closed.
  • Carlton Hotel has changed its name to 66 Guldsmeden.

For books printed before April 2017, the following may also apply:

  • All Bike Copenhagen with Mike tours must be booked in advance at http://bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk/bookings.
  • Cruise-ship passengers arriving at the Oceankaj terminal who wish to take the public bus into town now must first ride bus #27 from the terminal to the Østerport train station, and then transfer to bus #26 for the ride into central Copenhagen.

Helsinki

  • Academica Summer Hostel is closed.
  • Renovations at the National Museum of Finland, involving overhauls of their permanent collection, are supposed to be completed by early 2021.
  • Because of route changes, the Helsinki Tram Tour, which features a loop through Helsinki on public trams #2 and #3, now requires a transfer at the Auroran Sairaala stop (which is several stops past the original transfer point of Töölön halli).
  • Helsinki’s main tourist information office is now in the train station. The location near the Esplanade has closed.
  • Torni Tower's Ateljée Bar, with excellent city views, is closed for renovation but scheduled to reopen in 2021.
  • Linda Line has ceased ferry service between Helsinki and Tallinn, Estonia.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Helsinki's tram lines have been reorganized. New route maps are available on the transport network's website.
  • Temppeliaukio Church now charges admission (€3).
  • Sundmans Krog Bistro has closed.
  • The Erottajanpuisto hostel is now called Hostel Diana Park and has a new website (www.dianapark.fi).

For books printed before April 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The Helsinki City Museum is now located at Aleksanterinkatu 16 and is open Mon–Fri 11:00–19:00, Sat–Sun 11:00–17:00.

Jutland

For books printed before June 2018, the following may apply:

  • Jacob's Pita Bar and Jacob's BarBQ in Aarhus have closed.
  • Bus numbers in Aarhus have changed; see www.rejseplanen.dk for updated transit information.
  • The Aarhus tourist information office is in Dokk1, a library/cultural center at the Aarhus Harbor (generally Mon–Thu 10:00–19:00, Fri until 17:00, Sat–Sun until 16:00); there's also a branch at the bus station (daily 7:00–19:00) and one in the main square in summer. All branches share the same telephone number (+45 87 31 50 10).

Kalmar

For books printed before June 2018, the following may apply:

  • Hamnkrog restaurant has closed.
  • O'Reilly's Irish Pub has closed.
  • The Co-op supermarket at Södra Långgatan 8 has closed.

Norway in a Nutshell

For books printed before June 2018, the following may apply:

  • The telephone number for train information for Norway in a Nutshell, Oslo, and Bergen routes is +47 61 05 19 10 — press 9 for English.
  • The tourist information office in Flåm no longer sells tickets for the Lustrabaatane ferry to Gudvangen. Tickets are available online, from a vendor at the dock (in summer), and onboard.
  • The Fjords Tours' "Norway in a Nutshell" package is now sold at tourist information offices and train stations in Oslo and Bergen.

For books published before February 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Two ferry companies now run boats on the fjord between Flåm and Gudvangen: The Fjords Tours and Lustrabaatane. If you're buying your own Nutshell tickets, Lustrabaatane is the cheapest option. The Fjords replaces Sognefjorden Sightseeing & Tours.

For books published before November 2017, the following may also apply:

  • Near Flåm: Otternes Farms is closed to visitors.

Oslo

  • On Olaf Ryes Polass, dive bar Ryes has closed.
  • On Olaf Ryes Plass, Quesadilla (Mexican fare) is now Skaal Matbar (sophisticated small plates).
  • Ma Poule wine bar (in the Mathallen Oslo market) is now called Galopin.
  • Troy's Burger, on Torggata, has closed.
  • Pisco restaurant, on Badstugata, has closed.
  • Ellingson's Pensjonat is now Villa Marie. New website is www.villamarie.net.
  • Comfort Hotel Karl Johan telephone number is now +47 23 01 03 52.
  • Thon hotels have changed their email domain from "thonhotels.no" to "olavthon.no" So, for example, the new email for the Rosenkrantaz location is now rosenkrantzoslo@olavthon.no.
  • House of Oslo shopping mall closed in 2018.
  • Perminalen Hotel has a new website: www.perminalen.no.
  • Open Top Sightseeing no longer runs hop-on, hop-off buses in Oslo.
  • Båtservice no longer operates bus tours of Oslo.
  • Oslo Guideservice no longer offers the "Oslo Promenade" walking tour.
  • Viking Biking no longer offers walk-up rentals; you must reserve in advance (daily flat rate of 2,000 NOK for 1–10 bikes, includes helmet, lock, and map).
  • Oslo’s Viking Ship Museum is in the middle of a multiyear expansion, and exhibits will ultimately move into the new Viking Age Museum (scheduled to open by 2025). In the interim, some ships may not be on display in the museum.
  • The opening of the new Munch Museum has been postponed until spring 2021. The new location is on the harbor, facing the Opera House at Bjørvika. Cost and hours are still undetermined but this is what we suspect: 120 NOK; daily 10:00–17:00, Oct–May until 16:00; café and restaurant, on the harbor opposite the Opera House at Bjørvika, +47 23 49 35 00, www.munchmuseet.no.
  • The National Gallery is closed; it's slated to reopen as part of the New National Museum in 2021.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The telephone number for train information for Norway in a Nutshell, Oslo, and Bergen routes is +47 61 05 19 10 — press 9 for English.
  • Royal Marine Seafood Grill has closed.

For books printed before February 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Guided tours of the richly decorated City Hall are now offered only in summer (June–Aug daily at 10:00, 12:00, and 14:00).
  • The outlying Rygge Airport in the town of Moss is closed. Discount airlines now primarily use Sandefjord Airport Torp, 70 miles south of the city.
  • Construction on the speedy X 2000 train line from Oslo to Stockholm will likely interrupt service through 2020. Slower SJ InterCity trains will still be available (35 kr reservations still required for InterCity trains in all classes).
  • Alibaba Restaurant has closed.

For books printed before November 2017, the following may also apply:

  • The Munch Museum is now reachable by bus #20 to the Munchmuseet stop (rather than bus #60); the T-bane to Tøyen still works fine as well.
  • The venerable Grand Café, the haunt of many noted Norwegian artists and authors, has reopened (and now includes a wine cellar).

For books printed before April 2017, the following may also apply:

Sognefjord

  • In Balestrand, the Pilgrim restaurant in the Golden House Gallery building is closed.
  • Sjøtun Camping (in Balestrand) has closed for good.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • In summer, there is now an extra run of the Glacier Bus from Sogndal to the Nigard Glacier, making a half-day visit possible.
  • In Sogndal on the Lustrafjord, Loftesnes Pensjonat has closed.

Stavanger

  • There is no longer a viable bus connection between Bergen and the ferry that departs from Kristiansand, Norway, to Hirtschals, Denmark. The ferry is still running.
  • Parts of Stavanger's cathedral, the oldest in Norway, will be closed to visitors for restoration through 2023 as it gears up to celebrate its 900th birthday in 2025.
  • In Stavanger, Rødne Fjord Clipper is now Rødne Fjord Cruise and runs daily bus trips and cruise-plus-bus combo trips to Pulpit Rock. Bus tours from Stavanger to the Rock are now operated by Go Fjords and Pulpit Rock Tours; Tide Reiser and Boreal no longer run these buses.
  • In Stavanger, the underwater Ryfast Tunnel is now open. Bus tours to Pulpit Rock and travelers with cars use the nine-mile tunnel, which burrows under the sea at Stavanger and emerges near Solbakk on the other side (140-NOK toll). From there it's a short drive on highway 13 to the parking lot and trailhead at Pulpit Rock.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Nye La Piazza restaurant has closed.
  • The Printing Museum was slated to reopen by 2016, but remains closed for the foreseeable future.

Stockholm

  • Kaknäs Tower is permanently closed to the public.
  • To reach Thielska Galleriet from Odenplan, take bus #67 (not #69).
  • Stockholm no longer has a City Bikes program.
  • Sushi Yama Express at Nybrogatan 18 has permanently closed.
  • The Stockholm Pass no longer covers Skansen.
  • The Stockholm City Museum has reopened, and the Saluhall market is now slated to reopen in winter 2020.
  • The Swedish History Museum's viking exhibit will be under renovation until early 2021. The rest of the museum will remain open.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The military parade now starts running daily earlier in the year (late April) but no longer takes place daily in September (Wed, Sat–Sun only).
  • The English Bookshop has moved to the Södermalm district at Södermannag 22.
  • Royal Sightseeing is now called Red Buses and offers hop-on, hop-off bus and boat tours.
  • Strömma's 1.25-hour Old Town walking tour now leaves from Gustav Adolfs torg.
  • Mat and Bar café has closed.
  • The City Hall has a new website: www.stockholm.se/stadshuset.
  • Buses #3 and #50 stop at City Hall.
  • The route for bus #71 has changed and no longer works for travelers arriving by cruise ship.
  • Ferries to Turku, Helsinki, Tallinn, and Rīga now depart from Värtahamnen port.
  • The Scandic Kungsgatan hotel has closed.
  • HTL Kungsgatan is now called "Scandic No. 53" and has new contact info: +46 8 5173 6500, www.scandichotels.com, no53@scandichotels.com.
  • Columbus Hotel is now called NOFO Hotel/NOFO Loft and is a hybrid hotel/hostel. There is a new website and email address: www.nofohotel.se, info@nofo.se.

Tallinn

  • Baltic Hotel Imperial is closed.
  • Grillhaus Daub and Wadabus are closed.
  • Rixwell Old Town Hotel is now part of the Rija chain: Rija Old Town Hotel.
  • Tickets for Tallinn’s public transportation are now available as QR tickets for use on a mobile phone (€1.50 for any ride up to 1 hour, can purchase up to 10 rides per ticket, shareable with other riders, purchase at tallinn.pilet.ee or with the mobile app Pilet.ee). For travelers staying longer, the Ühiskaart smartcard can be purchased for €2, then loaded up with credit (€1.50 per ride, €4.50/24 hours, €7.50/72 hours).
  • The KGB Prison Cells, recently opened in Tallinn's former KGB headquarters, give visitors a glimpse into the prisons and interrogation rooms once used.
  • Linda Line has ceased ferry service between Helsinki and Tallinn, Estonia.
  • The Museum of Occupations is now called the "Vabamu Museum of Occupations and Freedom." The museum was recently upgraded and expanded to include a new permanent exhibit exploring Estonia's occupations, resistance, and rise to freedom. The former audioguide has been replaced with an "etour guide" mobile device that brings the displays to life.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Budget eateries Road Food, Eat, and Balti Jaama Kohvik (at the outdoor market) have closed.

Uppsala

  • Uppsala University's Gustavianum (historic collections including Viking discoveries and scientific instruments) is closed for renovations until fall 2023.
  • The tourist information office on Kungsgatan 59 has closed. Instead, staffed InfoPoints move around the city, offering maps and brochures. See the website for stops and hours: www.destinationuppsala.se.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The Uppsala Card is no longer available.

Växjö and Glass Country

  • Lessebo Paper Workshop has a new website: lessebohandpappersbruk.se.
  • Växjö's three main museums (House of Emigrants, Smålands Museum, Swedish Glass Museum) share this website: www.kulturparkensmaland.se.
  • Växjö's hostel is under new management with the name Evedals Vandrarhem Hostel. Their website is www.evedalscamping.com.
  • Grill Bryggehuset in Kalmar has closed.
  • Växjö tourist information office has moved to a location within city hall, at Västra Esplanaden 18, a 10-minute walk from the train station.

For books printed before June 2018, the following may also apply: