When to Go to Austria
By Rick Steves
The peak tourist season for Vienna runs roughly from May through October, though it gets a steady stream of visitors from March through December. Summer has the advantage of very long days (light until after 21:00), but it can be hot, and two Viennese institutions — the Boys' Choir and the State Opera — don't perform in July and August. (The Lipizzaner stallions also take a break, from late June to mid-August.
Salzburg is fun, festive, jammed, and expensive from mid-July through August, when it hosts the Salzburg Festival (the most famous of its many musical happenings). In the mountains, the summer hiking season — when upper lifts are operating and trails are open — is a bit shorter, starting in late May or early June and ending when the cows come home, in mid- to late September.
In spring and fall, weather is decent but less predictable — especially if you're heading to the mountains (pack layers, prepare for chily evenings, and expect rainy days to alternate with sunny ones). Some high-altitude lifts and trails may be closed, and the farther you get from summer, the more alpine towns close down as they transition between hiking season and ski season. In spring, a string of public holidays can limit sightseeing hours (but can also mean special festivities). In fall, harvest and wine festivals enliven many towns and villages, while forests and vineyards boast beautiful fiery colors.
Winter travelers find city concert seasons in full swing, with fewer crowds — but some accommodations and sights either are closed or run on a limited schedule. The weather can be cold and dreary, and nightfall draws the shades on sightseeing well before dinnertime. Mountain destinations are all about skiing, and even in the lowlands, dustings of snow can turn towns and landscapes into wonderlands. December offers the chance to wander through traditional Christmas markets; this is also when Vienna's winter ball scene comes to life.