Guidebook Updates for Italy

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• Car-rental agencies in Italy are now seem to be more frequently requiring renters to show an International Driving Permit. To avoid hassle in Italy, it's best to get one before your trip (see our tips at Rental-Car Red Tape in Europe).
• Overnight Paris–Italy trains (formerly run by Thello) are no longer operating; direct trains between France and Italy are now limited to daytime TGV and Frecciarossa trains on the Paris–Lyon–Turin–Milan route.
• Direct Frecce trains run once or twice a day between Rome's Fiumicino Airport and Venice, Padua, Bologna, Florence, and Naples.
• Some museum websites ending in ".it" only operate when the sight itself is open. From the US, you may have to visit these websites first thing in the morning.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• Museums run by the Italian state are free to enter once or twice a month, usually on a Sunday. Free days are actually bad news — they attract crowds. In peak season, check state museum websites in advance and make a point to avoid their free days.
• Tuscany's regional bus companies have been subsumed by a big company called Autolinee Toscane. Tickets are available through their app, Autolinee Toscane offices, and at machines.

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• Mondo Guide has updated their prices and information — see their site for the latest.
• Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Amalfi.
• CitySightseeing's bright red hop-on, hop-off buses aren't currently running between Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, though you could call to confirm that service hasn't resumed since we posted this (+39 081 1825 7088). Service to Ravello is almost certain not to resume.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• Positano's main beach, Spiaggia Grande, is now almost completely private; entry costs range roughly between €20 and €100.
• Giovanni Visetti is no longer guiding tours.
• Brikette Hostel in Positano no longer offers day privileges (luggage storage, Wi-Fi, or showers) for nonguests.
• The Monetti taxi service's site has a new URL: www.monettitaxi17.com (not .it).

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• The tourist information office in the valley (near the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli) has closed.
• For information on visiting the Basilica of St. Francis, call its new number: +39 075 819 0084.
• Assisi's Saturday morning market now takes place not on Via Borgo San Pietro but on Via Borgo Aretino (between the Basilica of St. Clare and Porta Nuova).
• Booking a room at Camere Carli is best done through Booking.com (rather than email), as owner Franco speaks limited English and does not use email regularly.
• The "Umbria Airlink," operated by Busitali, now offers service between Perugia Airport and Assisi's train station (€5; bus info also available on the airport's site).
• Flixbus no longer offers bus service between Assisi and Rome; it's once again run by Sulga.

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• A timed-entry ticket is required to hike the Via dell'Amore, which is by guided tour only (€10 in addition to required Cinque Terre park card). Reservations can be made online or at information offices in the five villages, as well as in La Spezia and Levanto. Only 400 hikers are allowed access every hour (100 hikers every 15 minutes). In high season, the walk departs only from Riomaggiore.
• National park information offices now all have the same opening hours: 8:30–19:30 year round.
• To reach Amy Inman, who offers accomodations in Riomaggiore, see her new site or email [email protected].
• Il Giardino Incantato B&B in Monterosso has a new email address: [email protected].
• Manuel's Guesthouse in Monterosso has a new email address: [email protected].
• Francamaria Rooms in Vernazza has a new website: www.francamaria.it.
• Vernazza Rooms has a new website and a new email address: [email protected].
• Locla guide Anfrea Bordigoni has a new email address: [email protected].
• Dive Center 5 Terre in Riomaggiore no longer rents kayaks.
• Trattoria da Sandro in Vernazza has closed.

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• Bus #170, which connects Bolzano with Castelrotto/Kastelruth and the lift station for the gondola up to the Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm, now runs more frequently at key times during the summer: up to 4/hour at weekday peaks (8:00–12:00 & 15:00–18:00), otherwise 2/hour; hourly after 20:00 and on Sun; last departure from Bolzano at 22:10, 20:10 on Sun. Also, the bus stop for the gondola station is no longer called "Bergbahn" but "Seis, Abzweigung Kabinenbahn / Siusi, Bivio Cabinovia" (screens on board the bus show upcoming stops).
• The Seiser Alm Bahn gondola between the station near Siusi/Seis and Compatsch now costs €27 round trip (mid-May–Oct and Dec–mid-April daily 8:00–18:00, mid-June–mid-Sept until 19:00, closed most of Nov and mid-April-mid-May, runs continuously during open hours).
• In summer (mid-June–mid-Oct), buses #3/3a and #172 jointly run between Castelrotto/Kastelruth and the gondola station near Siusi/Seis 4/hour at peak times: to the gondola station in the morning, and from the gondola station in the afternoon; otherwise service is limited to 2/hour (with a mid-day pause in mid-May–mid-June and late October, when bus #2 also runs this route).
• For visitors using a regional pass (such as the Südtirol Guest Pass) to get around the Dolomites, it's important to write your name and validity dates on the card (hotels may sometimes fill this out for guests). On board buses, hold the card's QR code up to the reader before finding your seat.
• Bolzano's main tourist information office is now closed on weekends and in the middle of the day (open Mon–Fri 9:00–12:00 & 14:00–17:00). Fortunately, a smaller office has opened on PIazza del Grano/Kornplatz, with longer hours: Mon–Sat 10:00–18:00 (closed Sun).
• Bolzano's tourism office no longer offers regular walking tours in English.
• From Klobenstein (atop the Ritten/Renon hillside, at the far end of the narrow-gauge train from Oberbozen) the walk to view the earth pyramids is 45 minutes each way (not 15 minutes).
• Castelrotto's/Kastelruth's tourism office is now open Mon–Sat 8:30–12:30 & 14:00–18:00, Sun 9:00–12:00 in summer (closed Sun Sept–June); also open till 22:00 on some Tuesdays in July and early August.
• Castelrotto/Kastelruth now has a launderette: Self-service Bloomest, three minutes past the Co-op/Konsum-Markt on the road to Ortisei/St. Ulrich/Urtijëi, has top-of-the line appliances and a soap-vending machine with an oddly wide array of detergents (Farbfänger is the normal color-safe stuff). Despite the lengthy instructions posted in German and Italian, the machines are basic enough to figure out (daily 7:00–22:00, Paniderstrasse 15, entrance is around the corner on Grondlbodenweg, +39 338 200 3760).
• The ticket machine at Castelrotto's/Kastelruth's bus depot sells tickets for bus #3/3a, but otherwise mostly buses of little use to Rick Steves readers. (Also, all these buses are covered by the Südtirol Guest Pass that's free to people overnighting at most local hotels.)
• Pension Lantschner in Castelrotto/Kastelruth has a new owner and new phone number: +39 345 337 4444.
• Near Kastelruth, the Tonderhof farm stay has a new phone number: +39 338 483 9794
• For those interested in hiking the ridge at Seceda, here's some more information:

  From Kastelruth, it's a 20-minute drive or ride on bus #172 (2/hour early June–mid-Oct, hourly off-season) northeast, up the Grödner Tal/Val Gardena — "Gherdëina" in Ladin, which predominates here — to the town of Ortisei/St. Ulrich/Urtijëi. The bus leaves you off at the central Antoniusplatz/Piazza San Antonio, where a sign points to a one-block walk to a series of escalators and moving sidewalks whisking you up to the base of the first of two Seceda lifts (from the bus stop, look for brown Secëda sign in front of the white Cassa de Sparani bank; drivers can pay to park in a garage at the base of the lift — look for Parkgarage Seceda).

  Get a round-trip ticket for the gondola and cable car that go all the way to Seceda ridge; you'll change lifts at the midpoint station of Furnes (€45, runs 8:00–17:30, until 18:00 July–Aug, until 16:30 in the last three weeks of Oct, closed Nov–late May, about 20 minutes to the top). At the top station, be sure to check the posted "last lift down" time.

  The obvious, easy choice is to simply hike straight out along the ridge toward the otherworldly, dragon's-teeth peaks that jab sharply into the sky. From there, you can circle back to the cable car (allow 45 minutes round-trip if you head out on the higher route), or follow any of several scenic paths farther down into the meadow. (The rounded formations at Pieralongia are a satisfying extension.) The paths are dotted with pleasant huts offering food and a chance to soak it all in, and a quad chairlift, the Fermeda (runs until 16:30), lets you skip some demanding uphill stretches on your way back to the gondola.
  Seceda and Seiser Alm in One Day: Seceda and the Seiser Alm are close enough that it's easy to explore both in one day. First, head to Ortisei/St. Ulrich/Urtijëi — ride up the Seceda lifts, do the main round-trip hike described above, and take the lifts back down. Walk 15 minutes across town to the Mont Sëuc gondola and ride it up (€21, runs 8:30–17:00 mid-May-Oct, until 18:00 mid-June–mid Oct). From the top, hike down to the road; from there you can walk or catch bus #11 to Compatsch.

• Reifenstein Castle (Castel Tasso) is now open March–Oct Sun–Fri 10:00–18:00, until 16:00 Nov–Dec (closed Jan–Feb and Sat year-round).

For books printed before October 2025, the following may apply:

• The Uffizi Gallery — where we recommend booking a timed-entry reservation at least a month in advance to have your pick of entry times — has switched to paperless tickets, and no longer offers a pay-by-phone option.
• The Vasari Corridor (between the Pitti Palace and Palazzo Vecchio via the Ponte Vecchio bridge) has reopened to visitors after a years-long restoration. It's accessible from the Uffizi Gallery. Buy a combo-ticket when reserving your Uffizi Gallery ticket.
• Walks Inside Florence has a new lead guide, Chiara Calanca, and a new phone number: +39 346 380 1015 ([email protected]).
• Because of a production error, our recommendation for Hotel la Scaletta did not appear in the first printing of the 28th edition of Rick Steves Italy:
  $$$$ Hotel la Scaletta, in the Oltarano neighborhood of Florence, has 40 pricey, sleek rooms hiding in a convoluted floor plan. Some ground-floor rooms surround a peaceful garden. Their fabulous rooftop terrace bar/restaurant offers 360-degree views and is a nice place for a drink (discount for Rick Steves readers when you pay with cash, family rooms, breakfast extra, Via de' Guicciardini 13, +39 055 283 028, [email protected], Sara).

For books printed before April 2025, the following may also apply:

• It's become critical to book in advance at the Accademia (at least two months in advance), the Uffizi (at least one month in advance), and for climbing the Duomo's dome (one month).
• Each of the three passes for the Duomo Complex includes a timed entry to a different sight: The Ghiberti Pass includes a timed entry to the cathedral, the Giotto Pass includes a timed entry to climb the Campanile, and the Brunelleschi Pass includes a timed entry to climb the Duomo's dome.
• The PassePartout combo-ticket offers admission to the Museum of Precious Stones in addition to the Uffizi, Pitti Palace, and Boboli Gardens.
• A Bargello Museums combo-ticket covers entry to the five sights run by the Bargello: the Medici Chapels, Orsanmichele Church, Palazzo Davanzati, Casa Martelli, and the Bargello itself. The €21 pass is valid for 72 hours.
• The Bargello Museum is now closed on Tuesdays and has a new phone number: +39 055 064 9440.
• The Medici Chapels are now open Wed–Mon 8:15–18:50; closed Tuesdays. Last entry is 40 minutes before closing.
• At the Brancacci Chapel, which has reopened following a series of renovations, reservations are required and can be booked a few days to a week in advance. The chapel is now open daily except Tuesdays and has a new information phone number: +39 055 276 8224.
• The Accademia Gallery has a new information phone number: +39 055 098 7100.
• The Pitti Palace has a new information phone number: +39 055 294 883.
• Fra Angelico's predella panels of the Wedding and Funeral of the Virgin has been moved from the Museum of San Marco to the Uffizi to be displayed with the main altarpiece.
• The interior of the Baptistery's dome is under restoration until 2029. You can book a guided tour that takes you up the scaffolding to see the mosaics up close.
• The Bardi Chapel at Santa Croce is closed for restoration until at least 2025; panels show the Giotto frescoes in the meantime.
• At Santa Maria Novella Church, Masaccio's fresco The Trinity (the first painting of modern times to portray three-dimensional space) is undergoing restoration. During this time, visitors can pay €1.50 to enter the restoration are and see the fresco up close.
• The Museo dell'Opera at Santa Croce is closed for renovations.
• Orsanmichele Church is now closed on Tuesdays and no longer has evening concerts.
• At the Palazzo Vecchio, nighttime terrace visits remain closed to the public, though in summer, you may be able to visit the balcony in the evening; ask at the ticket office. Excavations of a 2,000-year-old theater from ancient Florentia are closed to the public indefinitely.
• For buses and trams, the easiest way to pay is by "contactless" ("tap-to-pay") credit card payment when you board. To use paper tickets, buy them at tobacco shops (tabacchi), newsstands, tram stops, and some bus stops (€1.70/90 minutes).
• There are no longer shuttle buses between the Florence airport and local train and bus stations. Transportation to and from the airport is by tram, taxi, or rental car.
• Florence has banned new Airbnbs and other short-term rentals (grandfathered listings still exist as an option; we no longer recommend them).
• Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: Shore Experience replaces TuscanyBus.com and offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point). City Sightseeing Livorno has similar offerings geared to cruisers.
• The Coin department store on Via de' Calzaiuoli has closed, and a new branch has opened at Piazza del Grano 5, near the Uffizi.
• The flea market formerly at Piazza dei Ciompi has moved near Mercato di Sant'Ambrogio.
• There is no longer an antiques market in Fiesole.
• Hotel Morandi Alla Crocetta at Via Laura 52 has reopened as Guest House Morandi, with new owners and a new phone number: +39 055 234 4747.
• In Piazza della Signoria B&B is now called Boutique Hotel in Piazza della Signoria. The new mobile number is +39 333 465 5886.
• On Elba, the local orange shuttle bus service in Portoferraio, which normally operates between the ferry port and the old harbor, may be running inconsistently.
• The Francesco da Firenze shop has closed.
• Pasticceria Robiglio has closed.
• Gosh bar and Mostodolce craft brewery have closed.
• Cross-Pollinate vacation rentals is no longer operating.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• The tourist information office's new website is the best source for the opening hours of many Florence sights, which change on a seemingly constant basis. The office's smaller branch, across from the Duomo and inside the Loggia, has closed.
• The Florentine State Museums' site is the best for booking tickets for the Uffizi, Accademia, and the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens combo-ticket.
• Some museums — such as the Accademia, Uffizi, Pitti Palace, and Bargello (but not the Medici Chapels) — are once again offering free admission on the first Sunday of the month. (But since the free admission causes increased crowding at these sights, we recommend avoiding these days.)
• Room numbers have been rearranged on the Uffizi's first and second floors.
• Tthe Museum of San Marco are now closed to visitors on Sundays. The room that was formerly known as "the Hospice" has been renovated and is now labeled as the Beato Angelico room; paintings have been rearranged.
• Ticket options for the Duomo complex sights have changed — see Making Museum Reservations in Florence. The Duomo now closes at 16:30 Mon–Sat year-round (though opening times sometimes change to accommodate to religious functions), and English mass there is now Sunday at 17:00 (the Duomo's interior is closed to visitors on Sundays).
• There's a new contact email for booking Duomo-themed tours: [email protected].
• Florencetown tours have moved to Piazza Mentana.
• Florentia tour company has a new email address: [email protected].
• Recommended guide Karin Kibby's new email address is: [email protected].

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• The Stresa-Alpino-Mottarone cable car remains closed, but may reopen in 2025.
• Bellagio's Hotel Metropole (and its restaurant, Terrazzo Ristorante) is closed for renovation until at least 2026.
• Albergo Beretta in Varenna has a new website: https://albergoberetta.it.
• Varenna's Ristorante il Caminetto has closed and Il Caminetto cooking classes have ceased operations, as Chef Moreno has passed away.

• Karin Kibby is no longer guiding private tours in Livorno.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may also apply:

• Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: Shore Experience replaces TuscanyBus.com and offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point). City Sightseeing Livorno has similar offerings geared to cruisers.
• At San Martino Cathedral, the Volto Santo (a cedarwood effigy of the crucified Christ said to be the oldest wooden sculpture in Europe) is under restoration until at least late 2025. On weekends during the restoration, you may be able to see the Volto Santo through a window into the on-site restoration lab. The annual Volto Santo procession and Mass is still still taking place every September 13 and 14 while the restoration is underway.
• The tourist information office on Piazza Curtatone has closed indefinitely.
• Il Cuore Enogastronomia restaurant/deli has closed.
• There is no longer an arts and crafts market near the cathedral on the last weekend of the month.

For books printed before June 2025, the following may apply:

• Hotel Aosta has a new website and a new email address: [email protected].
• Hotel Star is currently closed.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may apply:

• At Cappella Sansevero, reservations are now mandatory; there are no walk-up tickets available. You can book a timed-entry ticket up to 60 days in advance. Additional tickets may be released starting three days prior to your desired date. Visiting times are Wed–Mon 9:00–19:00.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Amalfi.
• Two recommended restaurants near the Archaeological Museum — Rosticerria Angela and La Stanza del Gusto — have both closed.
• To book with Mondo Guide Tours over email, write [email protected] (the [email protected] address is still fine for general inquiries).

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

• Tickets for the Duomo are now sold in Palazzo Soliano, the building directly to the right as you face the cathedral (the palazzo also houses the Emilio Greco collection).
• The Duomo's Chapel of the Corporal is no longer accessible from the nave. Visit the Duomo interior first, then circle around the exterior to enter the chapel from the Duomo's left side.
• The Church of Sant'Agostino is now closed to the public (the Duomo statues it housed are now back at the cathedral).
• Rental bikes are no longer available at the InfoPoint (ask at the tourist information for bike-rental options).
• Hotel Virgilio and Agriturismo Poggio Della Volara have both closed.

For books printed before March 2025, the following may apply:

• Free public access to the University of Padua courtyards may be closed on Sundays unless you're taking a 1.25-hour student-guided tour (€15) or a 45-minute audioguide tour (€10).
• Hotel Al Santo has closed.
• Cristina e Massimo restaurant has closed.

For books printed before January 2023, the following may also apply:

• The Air Service Shuttle service to/from Marco Polo and Treviso airports has ceased operations.
• Antica Trattoria dei Paccagnella has closed.
• Hotel Belludi 37 has closed.

• Paestum's tourist information office has closed.
• Il Granaio dei Casabella hotel has closed.

• La Bottega del Parco shop (on Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II), mentioned at the top of the Pisa Walk, has closed.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may also apply:

• The LAM Rossa (L/R) bus between Pisa Centrale Station and Piazza Manin (in front of the Field of Miracles) has changed names to #1+. You can pay with a contactless credit card (tickets are still available on the A-T app or machines).
• Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: Shore Experience replaces TuscanyBus.com and offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point). City Sightseeing Livorno has similar offerings geared to cruisers.
• Relais dei Mercanti hotel has a new phone number: +39 324 885 7881.
• Hotel Helvetia has a new phone number: +39 050 622 2706.
• Hotel Royal Victoria has a new email address: [email protected].
• Caffetteria BetsaBea has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• Guide Martina Manfredi has a new email address: [email protected].
• The main tourist information office is now open daily 10:00–18:00 (until 16:00 Nov–Feb).
• You can now visit the Duomo without a reservation voucher, provided you have a ticket for any other single Field of Miracles sight (doesn't have to be a combo-ticket).
• You may no longer be able to purchase bus tickets after boarding the bus; instead, get a ticket at a machine or tobacco shop.
• Il Vegusto has closed.

• In an effort to preserve the site, the Pompeii archaeological site is capping the number of visitors. In peak season (April–Oct), it's smart to book in advance (€1 surcharge), as tickets are by timed entry and will be limited. Each ticket will have the name of the visitor, and ID may be required.
• At Mount Vesuvius, the Busvia del Vesuvio bus up to the crater rim is no longer running.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may also apply:

• The Pompeii archaeological site no longer sells the bracelet allowing re-entry to the site. Each ticket is for a single entry only.
• Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Vesuvius, and Amalfi.

For books printed before March 2025, the following may apply:

• The TAMO mosaic-making museum has closed.
• The Rasponi Crypt is closed for accessibility renovations.
• Al Rustichello restaurant has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

• Bus #82 between Santa Margherita and Portofino is now #782.
• Sara Paolini is no longer working as a guide in La Spezia.
• Portofino's Museo del Parco is closed indefinitely.
• Portofino's Bistro Jolly has closed.
• Sestri Levante's Villa Jolanda has closed.
• La Spezia's Il Gelsomino B&B has closed.

• The Auditorium Parco della Musica has a new phone number: +39 06 8024 1281.

For books printed before October 2025, the following may also apply:

• St. Peter's Basilica is now offering a €7 timed-entry ticket that may save time in line (book in advance online; includes audioguide). Free entry is still available, but likely with longer lines to enter.
• The Trevi Fountain now limits the number of visitors, for a less crowded experience. Depending on the time of day and the season, you may wait in line 5–10 minutes or longer. You may stay at the fountain as long as you like. After 9 p.m., access is unrestricted.

For books printed before June 2025, the following may also apply:

• Photo ID is now required to enter the Colosseum as well as the Forum.
• Public transit prices have gone up for 2025: Standard fare is now €2 (valid for 100 minutes), day passes are €9.30–24 (sold in increments of 24, 48, and 72 hours), and week-long passes €32.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may also apply:

• 2025 is a Catholic Jubilee year, which is bringing millions of pilgrims to Rome. To help you plan when to visit (or avoid) certain areas, particularly around the Vatican, check the Jubilee 2025 website or visit the Pilgrims Welcome Center in Rome (Via della Conciliazione 7) for events calendars, news, and information.
• We now recommend booking timed-entry tickets for the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel as far in advance as possible (€25, including reservation fee). If individual tickets are sold out during the dates of your visit, consider booking a guided tour instead (€40, includes admission). The shop on St. Peter's Square no longer sells same-day tickets to the Vatican Museums.
• The website for purchasing Colosseum and Roman Forum/Palatine Hill/Imperial Forums tickets has changed, and may work only during Colosseum opening hours (and tickets are only available online). Also, the Roman Forum/Palatine Hill/Imperial Forums are now one single-entry sight: If you plan to visit more than one, you'll need to do it in a single visit, using internal connecting routes (no exiting to the street and reentering). The evening sound-and-light shows at the Imperial Forums have been discontinued.
• The Pantheon now charges a €5 entrance ticket, available via the Italian Ministry of Culture's site and in person: at the entrance, choose the shortest line and book at the machine, pay as you enter, or book online while you wait. Entry is free the first Sunday of the month. Be aware that these ticketing details may have changed again by the time you visit.
• To climb the dome at St. Peter's Basilica, the ticket office (with stairway entry) is typically on the south (left) side of the basilica but sometimes moves to the right side, where the elevator entrance is. Those visitors who want to take the elevator will still need to buy tickets at the ticket office on the left side, and walk around to the elevator entrance.
• You can now pay as you enter the Metro, buses, and trams by tapping your contactless credit card.
• The tourist information office at Termini station has closed.
• The website for information about the Borghese Gallery is now galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.
• The ruins at the Sacred Area of Largo Argentina (Area Sacra di Largo Argentina) are now open to visitors (€5, Tue–Sun 9:30–19:00, shorter hours off-season, closed Mon).
• Visits to the Catacombs of Priscilla are by 45-minute guided tour only.
• The Appia Antica Caffè once again rents bikes — both regular and e-bikes (Via Appia Antica 175, +39 06 8987 9575).
• The Rick Steves discount code for Walks of Italy is now RICKSTEVESROME10. The code grants Rick Steves guidebook readers 10 percent off the company's Rome city tours and day trips, including Colosseum tours, but not including the Vatican museums.
• Can't Be Missed Tours has a new phone number: +39 333 779 1273.
• Fiumicino Airport currently has only two operating terminals (T1 and T3). Terminal T5 is closed for renovation.
• Arch Rome Suites has a new email address: [email protected].
• The Mercato Monti market has closed.
• The Banchievecchi Pellami shop has been renamed "Cuoi e Pelli."
• Fatamorgana no longer has a location on Via Laurina.
• Hotel Portoghesi has closed.
• There is no longer a Vatican Express train or Civitavecchia Express train between Civitavecchia and Rome, but fast Regionale Veloce trains run with few or no intermediate stops to the San Pietro, Ostiense, and Termini stations.
• You can now catch a PortLink shuttle bus from your cruise dock directly to the Civitavecchia train station (€6, buy ticket on board).

For books printed before September 2022, the following may also apply:

• Reservations are currently required for weekend visits to the Pantheon. (No reservations are required or possible on weekdays.)
• The tourist information offices on Via Nazionale (at Palazzo delle Esposizioni) and near Piazza Navona (at Piazza delle Cinque Lune) have closed.
• The shortcut from the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter's is no longer an option for independent travelers. It is strictly for tour groups and the exit is monitored.
• Visiting the Borghese Gallery has become a little easier: Entry is still by mandatory reservation, but appointed times are now offered hourly (rather than every two hours) and you're no longer required to limit your visit to two hours. To help with crowd control, visitors are now routed to different floors upon arrival.
• Sitting on the Spanish Steps is no longer allowed. Violators face a €250 fine. Related "decorum laws" are also now more strictly enforced, including fines. We no longer recommend picnicking anywhere but in parks or other green spaces. Eating discreetly is fine, but not near major sights.
• The Roman Guy tours has a new phone number: US +1 888 290 5595.
• Electric minibuses are back: Elettrico #117 connects San Giovanni in Laterano, Colosseo, Via Cavour, Via Nazionale, and Trevi Fountain. Elettrico #119 connects Piazza Venezia, Via del Corso, Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo, and Piazza Augusto Imperatore.
• The Opera da Camera di Roma has moved to Palazzo Albertoni Spinola at Piazza Capizucchi 6 (close to the Jewish quarter).
• Recommended restaurant Il Pentagrappolo has closed.
• Feltrinelli International bookstore has closed.
• The Canadian Embassy in Rome has a new phone number: +39 06 854 441.
• The Vatican post office branch near the columns of St. Peter's Basilica's portico (just before the security checkpoint), is now closed (but you can still get the famous Vatican stamps at the other Vatican post office, next to the Vatican tourist information office).
• There's no more baggage storage at the train station in Civitavecchia, but you can store bags at two places on Via Garibaldi near the Varco Fortezza port entrance: the Semplice café and Seaman Hub.

• La Plumeria hotel in Cefalù has a new website: https://viaggiesapori.com/laplumeriahotel.
• La Rosa dei Venti apartments in Cefalù has a new website: https://viaggiesapori.com/rosadeiventi.
• The correct email address for B&B L'Orto Sul Tetto in Ragusa is [email protected].

• Visits to the Blue Grotto now take upwards of two hours.

For books printed before June 2025, the following may also apply:

• Local EAV buses to Via Capo now leave from the main road behind the train station: Exit the station and head left toward the back until you see the little staircase on the right, then turn right on the main road and follow the bus signs (€1.50, 3/hour, look for Massa Lubrense on bus display).
• CitySightseeing's bright red hop-on, hop-off buses aren't currently running between Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, though you could call to confirm in case service has resumed in time for your visit (+39 081 1825 7088). Service to Ravello is almost certain not to resume.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• Three of Sorrento's tourist information offices have closed: near Piazza Tasso at the corner of Via Correale, at Marina Piccola, and at the Achille Lauro parking garage. Fortunately, they've opened a new office at Piazza Tasso 25 (and the regional information office at Via Luigi de Maio 35 now also serves as the main branch of the Sorrento-specific information office).
• Sorrento's bus system has undergone major changes: All buses now stop or originate at the train station. Also, most buses no longer display route letters but instead show destinations on the front display. Stops are now marked more clearly. Buses to Marina Grande and Marina Piccola still stop at Piazza Tasso or Piazza Sant'Antonino, but other buses do not. Buses from the port to Piazza Tasso are now EAV minibuses. And the SITA Sud pass does not cover Sorrento city buses (only SITA buses, which do pass through city limits).
• Giovanni Visetti is no longer guiding tours.
• The Monetti taxi service's site has a new URL: www.monettitaxi17.com (not .it).
• Autoservizi De Martino has moved to a more distant location and may not be reachable by phone. For another scooter-rental option in Sorrento try Penisola Rent (Piazza Lauro 44, +39 081 362 2189).
• Futuro Mare snorkel and dive center has closed.
• Anacapri's tourist information office has moved to Piazza Vittoria 5.
• Capri Sightseeing now offers a five-stop shuttle service on the island, as well as tours.
• The Caremar ferry has a new phone number: +39 081 1896 6690.
• Capri's Blue Grotto is no longer visitable in winter.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may apply:

• To avoid long ticket-buying lines at the Duomo, consider prebooking your ticket (there is a €3 booking fee), or buy your ticket at the Dear Guests ticket window just off Il Campo.
• The Effects of Good and Bad Government medieval frescoes at the City Hall and Civic Museum are undergoing extensive restoration.

For books printed before April 2025, the following may apply:

• The Autolinee-Toscane public transit system now operates direct bus service (route #1, summer only) between Volterra and San Gimignano.
• Montalcino's La Crociona hotel has new onwnership and a new name: Agriturismo Croce di Mezzo.
• Relais Ortaglia is no longer located near Montepulciano but has moved to a spot in the Val d'Orcia.
• Volterra's Pizzeria Ombra della Sera and Punto Simply Market have closed.
• Volterra's Hotel Albergo Nazionale and Park Hotel Le Fonti have closed.
• Cortona's Molesini Market has closed.
• Montepulciano's Ramaio Cesare copper workshop has closed.

For books printed before October 2025, the following may apply:

• The city's "access fee" is being reinstated for 54 days in 2025, starting April 18. As in 2024 (see below), day-trippers must pay to enter the historical center: €5/person per day if you register more than four days ahead of you visit; after that the cost goes up to €10. Details are well explained by the tourism office's FAQ.
• Large cruise ships no longer dock at Venice's Stazione Marittima. Instead, they use the Marghera port on the mainland, or they dock farther away at Ravenna or Trieste (2–3 hours from Venice by car or train). The old Stazione Marittima port is still used for embarkation/debarkation processes for passengers starting or ending their cruise in Venice.
• The Alilaguna express boat blue line (linea blu) from the Marittima port to St. Mark's Square no longer leaves from in front of terminal building #103; instead, cruisers can get on at the Tronchetta (car park) or Ferrovia (Santa Lucia train station) stop.

For books printed before March 2025, the following may also apply:

• The dome of La Salute Church is now open to visitors (€8, Wed–Sun 10:00–17:00), making for another breathtaking Grand Canal viewpoint. Its sacristy (now €6) is now closed all day Mondays, and on Tuesday mornings.
• Venice is now charging day-trippers €5 on certain dates; at those times every visitor to the old city should be prepared to show a QR code as proof that they've paid the fee. The city also charges a tourist tax for overnight visitors (€1–5/person per night, depending on time of year and accommodation class); your hotel will provide you with the QR-code proof of your overnight stay.
• For a peak-season visit to St. Mark's Basilica, we now recommend making reservations at least a month in advance.
• The Treasury at St. Mark's Basilica is closed indefinitely.
• The tourist information office once located inside the train station has moved to the edge of the canal nearby, to the left of the Church of Santa Maria of Nazareth (between the Ferrovia vaporetto dock C/D and the train station).
• Vaporetto line #3, which runs from Venice's train and bus stations to Murano-Colonna, is suspended while construction work is underway on the Cannaregio canal, which could last into 2026.
• The Alilaguna aiport boat's red line (linea rossa), which connects Marco Polo Airport with Venice city center and other nearby stops, runs only from mid-April through October.
• At San Giorgio Maggiore, there is a mandatory €8 "donation" to climb the bell tower, which must be paid in cash. (And the island does not have ATMs.)
• At Scuola San Rocco, Tintoretto's Crucifixion is under restoration until at least 2025, so some paintings in the Sala dell'Albergo may be covered up.
• In the Cannaregio district, near the Arsenale gate, the Ships Pavilion (with 19th-century boats) may be closed for renovation.
• The Jewish Museum has reopened following its renovation.
• La Fenice opera house has a new box office phone number: +39 041 272 2699.
• Trattoria da Bepi has changed its name to Bepi Antico 54.
• Osteria al Ponte Storto has changed its name to Ai 4 Feri Storti.
• Guide Sara from Walks Inside Venice has passed away. (Roberta is still guiding.)
• Cross-Pollinate vacation rentals is no longer operating.
• Il Merletto lace shop on Burano has closed.
• La Murrina shop on Murano has closed.
• Inishark Pub has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

• St. Mark's Basilica now charges admission (€3, or €6 for timed-entry advance ticket).
• From late May to mid-September, vaporetto line #2, which typically runs between Piazzale Roma (bus station) and San Marco/San Zaccaria via Giudecca, converts to an express boat that runs all the way down the Grand Canal to/from San Marco.
• The Correr Museum/Doge Palace's combo ticket is now €25.

For books printed before March 2025, the following may apply:

• The Roman Theater is now closed all day on Monday.
• At Enoteca Oreste, a stop on the Verona Walk, we mention asking Oreste's wife Beverly about a story, but she has died.

For books printed before January 2023, the following may also apply:

• The helpful tourist information office has moved to Verona's City Hall (Palazzo Barbieri); its entrance is at Via Leoncino 61, just around the corner from Piazza Brà.
• Tour guide Valeria Biasi has a new email address: [email protected].
• Hotel Antica Porta Leona and L'Ospite hotel have closed.