Guidebook Updates for Italy

When we learn of important changes to the information in our guidebooks on Italy, we post them here. (Of course, it's still smart to reconfirm critical transportation and sightseeing details locally.) Armed with a Rick Steves guidebook and these late-breaking updates, you're set for a great trip!

Across Italy

  • It seems that car-rental agencies in Italy are now more frequently requiring renters to show an International Driving Permit. To avoid hassle in Italy, it's best to get one before your trip (see our tips at Rental-Car Red Tape in Europe).
  • Overnight Paris–Italy trains (formerly run by Thello) are no longer operating; direct trains between France and Italy are now limited to daytime TGV and Frecciarossa trains on the Paris–Lyon–Turin–Milan route.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Museums run by the Italian state are free to enter once or twice a month, usually on a Sunday. Free days are actually bad news — they attract crowds. In peak season, check state museum websites in advance and make a point to avoid their free days.
  • Tuscany's regional bus companies have been subsumed by a big company called Autolinee Toscane. Tickets are available through their app, Autolinee Toscane offices, and at machines.

 

Amalfi Coast and Paestum

  • Mondo Guide has updated their prices and information — see their site for the latest.
  • CitySightseeing's bright red hop-on, hop-off buses aren't currently running between Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, though you could call to confirm that service hasn't resumed since we posted this (+39 081 1825 7088). Service to Ravello is almost certain not to resume.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Positano's tourist information office has closed. In summer, however, the town sets up information stands at the Sponda bus stop, on Piazza dei Mulini, and at the beach.
  • The tourist information office in the town of Amalfi is now open April–Oct daily 9:00–17:00.
  • Ravello's tourist information office has moved to Viale Richard Wagner 4.
  • Positano's main beach, Spiaggia Grande, is now almost completely private; entry costs range roughly between €20 and €100.
  • Giovanni Visetti is no longer guiding tours.
  • Brikette Hostel in Positano no longer offers day privileges (luggage storage, Wi-Fi, or showers) for nonguests.
  • La Zagara in Positano no longer hosts evening musical performances.
  • Charter La Dolce Vita in Amalfi is now Premium Boat Charter.
  • The Monetti taxi service's site has a new URL: www.monettitaxi17.com (not .it).
  • Both the museum and archaeological site at Paestum have undergone renovations and pandemic-related reorganization such that your guidebook's description may be a little off. Fortunately, good signboards in English explain major features.

Assisi

  • Bus service between Perugia Airport and Assisi's train station is now offered by Busitali (€5; bus info also available on the airport's site).
  • Flixbus no longer offers bus service between Assisi and Rome; it's once again run by Sulga.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Assisi's city buses are now labeled "Assisi Link" (not "Busitali").
  • 3 Elle Blu' laundry has closed; instead try Lavanderia Lemon 2 (in the lower town at Via Giovanni Becchetti 38).

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The best telephone number for information on the Basilica of St. Francis is +39 075 819 0170.

Cinque Terre

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • The train station in Vernazza no longer offers baggage storage.
  • Monterosso's Wonderland bakery and Bar Davi have both closed.
  • The Vernazza Wine Experience has closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The Ostello 5-Terre Hostel in Manarola has closed.
  • Monterosso's Fast Bar no longer serves breakfast. Instead, try Beach Bar Alga on the beach or Pasticceria Laura at 59 Via Vittorio Emanuele.
  • ATC shuttle bus schedules are now available online at www.atcesercizio.it.
  • Roberto Pecunia now offers baggage delivery from all Cinque Terre train stations to your accommodations. Call ahead to +39 370 375 7972.
  • Local guide Paola Tommarchi is no longer working in the Cinque Terre.
  • Local guide Marco Brizzi has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Train schedules have changed in the Cinque Terre and any local train might skip one or more of the five towns. Before getting on any train, confirm that it stops at the town you need.
  • The alternate Riomaggiore-Manarola trail (known as "La Breccara") is closed through 2018.

For books printed before November 2017, the following may also apply:

  • Tickets for regional trains are now valid only on the day of purchase (you can't buy several in advance). This makes the Cinque Terre Treno Multi-Service Card worth considering for the sake of convenience, even if you don't plan to hike, since it covers local trains connecting all Cinque Terre towns, plus Levanto and La Spezia.

Dolomites

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The bus station in Bolzano has moved to just north of the train station.

Florence

  • Hotel Morandi Alla Crocetta has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • The tourist information office's new website is the best source for the opening hours of many Florence sights, which change on a seemingly constant basis. Also, the office's smaller branch, across from the Duomo and inside the Loggia, has closed.
  • Some museums — such as the Accademia, Uffizi, Pitti Palace, and Bargello (but not the Medici Chapels) — are once again offering free admission on the first Sunday of the month. (But since the free admission causes increased crowding at these sights, we recommend avoiding these days.)
  • The Uffizi and Accademia may no longer stay open late on certain days in peak season — double their current hours before assuming you can visit in the evening (and of course book ahead for a visit to either museum).
  • Room numbers have been rearranged on the Uffizi's first and second floors.
  • The combo-ticket for the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens is now valid for five days (not three), and no longer requires that your first visit be to the Uffizi.
  • The Florentine State Museums' site is the best for booking tickets for the Uffizi, Accademia, and the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens combo-ticket.
  • The Duomo interior and the Museum of San Marco are now closed to visitors on Sundays. The Museum of San Marco's room that was formerly known the Hospice has been renovated and is now labeled as the Beato Angelico room; paintings have been rearranged.
  • Ticket options for the Duomo complex sights have changed — see Making Museum Reservations in Florence.
  • If the main ticket office for the Duomo and its related sights (opposite the Baptistery at Piazza di San Giovanni 7) is still undergoing renovation during your visit, use the self-service ticket machines or visit the temporary ticket office at Piazza del Duomo 14a (opposite the entrance to the Duomo's crypt).
  • While the Brancacci Chapel is undergoing renovation you can view the frescoes at close range from scaffolding, though at relatively restricted hours (Fri–Sat & Mon 10:00–17:00, Sun from 13:00, closed Tue–Thu), and only when booked in advance via email at [email protected].
  • Santa Croce Church is no longer accessible from the leather school, and the school no longer sells tickets to the church. Timed-entry tickets are now available on the church's website.
  • The Vasari Corridor (connecting the Pitti Palace and Palazzo Vecchio) has reopened.
  • The Museo Leonardo Da Vinci has moved to Via del Castellaccio 1 red.
  • The Palazzo Vecchio Museum and excavations are no longer open till 23:00; they usually close at 19:00, though they may close earlier on certain days (and may stay open later during peak season).
  • Florencetown tours have moved to Piazza Mentana.
  • Florentia tour company has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Walks Inside Florence has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The correct URL for perfumery Aquaflor's website is www.aquaflor.it (not .com).
  • Sanctuary Firenze is now Suore Oblate dell' Assunzione (+39 055 234 6291, [email protected]).
  • Hotel dei Macchiaioli has closed.
  • Locanda de' Ciompi's email address is [email protected].
  • Hotel Dalí has a new email address: [email protected].

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Recommended guide Karin Kibby's new email address is: [email protected].
  • Hotel Maxim and Hotel Axial are now one hotel: Hotel Maxim Axial (+39 055 217 474, [email protected]).
  • Prestige Rent has moved to Via della Saggina 98, and has a new phone number: +39 055 286 059.
  • Transfer Chauffeur Service has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Bargello is now open daily 8:15–14:00 (until 17:00 for special exhibits), but closed on the second and fourth Sunday and the first, third, and fifth Monday of each month.
  • The Medici Chapel is now open Tue–Sat 8:15–14:00 as well as on the first, third, and fifth Sunday and second and fourth Monday of each month.
  • The Basilica of San Lorenzo is now closed Sundays, and the basilica's library is now open Mon–Fri 9:30–13:30, closed Sat–Sun.
  • The Gucci Museum (now called the "Gucci Garden Gallery") is now open daily until 23:00.
  • The Duomo now closes at 16:30 Mon–Sat year-round (though opening times sometimes change to accommodate to religious functions).
  • English mass at the Duomo is now Sunday at 17:00.
  • The Duomo sights combo-ticket is now valid for 72 hours.
  • There's a new contact email for booking Duomo-themed tours: [email protected].
  • A new combo-ticket for the Uffizi/Pitti Palace/Boboli Gardens saves you €12 over paying separately for each site.
  • The Pitti Palace's two ticket options have changed. Ticket #1 now covers most of the sights (the Palatine Gallery, Royal Apartments, Treasury of the Grand Dukes (silver museum), Museum of Costume and Fashion, and Gallery of Modern Art) while ticket #2 now covers the Bardini and Boboli Gardens as well as the Porcelain Museum.
  • Reserving an entry time for the Brancacci Chapel is not required, but it is recommended (even after it reopens following renovations, likely in 2024). You can book spots up until the day before your visit. It should still be considered mandatory from March through the end of May and advisable through the summer and fall. It's no longer possible to make the reservation at the Palazzo Vecchio.
  • The Medici-Riccardi Palace has a new phone number: +39 055 276 8224.
  • The new tram line, T2, is now operating between Amerigo Vespucci Airport and near Florence's SMN train station (runs every five minutes, 20 min, runs 5:00–24:00).
  • Bus #7 to Fiesole now leaves from near the train station on Piazza Adua rather than from Piazza San Marco (only return buses stop there now; with returns also near the train station at Largo Alinari).
  • Buses #14 and #17 no longer run between the train station and Piazza San Marco but buses #7 and #12 now do.
  • The city of Florence no longer rents bikes at the train station.
  • Turishav Travel is now Florentour. Their hours are now 9:30–16:30, closed Sat–Sun.
  • Walks Inside Florence's website is now at www.walksinsideflorence.it.
  • Istituto Gould has been renamed Foresteria Valdese di Firenze.
  • Hotel Europa has new ownership and has been reopened as Arté Hotel.
  • Panella's Residence has new ownership and is now open under the name Haggi's Residence.
  • Lovelife Café has closed.
  • Due Sorsi e Un Boccone has closed.
  • Trattoria I' Cche c'e' c'e' has closed.
  • Minibus #D is now #C4, and runs on a slightly different route, traveling from near the Duomo to the train station, across the Carraia bridge, through the Oltrarno (passing the Pitti Palace), and on to the San Niccolò neighborhood.

Lake Como & Lake Maggiore

  • Ristorante il Caminetto in Varenna has closed.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Some of the expressways between Milan and the lakes have shifted to an automated toll system that takes a photo of each license plate and sends a bill to the owner. Ask about this when picking up a rental car — specifically how best to avoid getting hit with late-payment fees.
  • The Bellagio tourist information office has moved to Piazza della Chiesa 14 and has a new phone number: +39 031 951 5550.
  • The Como tourist information office has moved to Via Giocondo Albertolli 7.
  • The Stresa-Alpino-Mottarone cable car remains closed (as of early 2024).
  • Trattoria La Botte in Stresa has moved to Via Garibaldi 8.
  • Bellagio's Albergo Europa and Albergo Giardinetto have both closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Hotel Eremo Gaudio in Varenna has closed.
  • Bellagio B&B Apartments have closed.

Lucca

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • Lucca has a new, smaller tourist information office near the train station on Piazza Curtatone (+39 0583 442 213).
  • Profer baggage storage in the train station has closed, and the main tourism office on Piazzale Giuseppe Verdi no longer stores bags.
  • Lucca Urban Adventures is now called Tuscany Like a Local (but has the same owners, and offers the same food tours).
  • Lavanderia Self-Service Niagara and Easy & Speedy Lavanderia have closed. Instead, try the self-service launderette at Via Galli Tassi 12.
  • The Carni Val Serchio butcher shop and the Loom of Penelope weaver's shop have both closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Ostello San Frediano has closed indefinitely.
  • La Locanda Sant'Agostino and Sogni d'Oro Guesthouse have closed.

Milan

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • If you've failed to book ahead to see the Last Supper, it's worth checking the ticketing site, as slots occasionally open up on short notice (thanks to last-minute cancellations) — but contrary to the advice printed in some earlier editions of our guidebooks, showing up in person in hopes of a last-minute slot is a waste of time. Tickets are now either €15 without a guided tour, or €23 with a tour (you can't add a tour after purchase.) On Sundays visiting hours now start at 14:00.
  • Reservations are required to visit the Brera Art Gallery on holidays and other busy times; last entry is now at 18:00.
  • The Duomo Museum no longer has its own ticket office/info center — head to the one at the Duomo itself.
  • Taxis can't be flagged down in Milan — call (+39 02 8585 or +39 02 6969) or walk to a taxi stand.
  • The Biblioteca Ambrosiana is not part of the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, though it is in the same building, and the Pinacoteca does have a library hosting a revolving display of Leonardo sketches and notes. 
  • Ristorante Calafuria Unione is now Al Cantinone, and has new owners (but the restauarant remains mostly the same).
  • The Excelsior department store has closed.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • For information on visiting the Duomo the best phone number is now +39 02 7202 3375.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Cucina Fusetti and Antica Osteria Milanese have closed.

Naples

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • The CitySightseeing hop-on, hop-off tour company no longer runs a shuttle bus between the city center and the Capodimonte Museum — taxis are now your best option.
  • Capri Sightseeing now offers shuttle service from Naples' cruise port to Pompeii, Herculaneum, and/or Vesuvius.
  • Two recommended restaurants near the Archaeological Museum — Rosticerria Angela and La Stanza del Gusto — have both closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

For books printed before March 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The southbound Circumvesuviana commuter train now stops at a new station called "Villa Regina" just before the stop for Pompeii — meaning that the Annunziata stop is no longer the last station before the Pompeii stop (Pompei Scavi).
  • Trams are not currently running in Naples (because of road construction), and won't be for several years. Take the Metro if you need to get between the port area and the main train station.
  • Cruise-ship passengers can now use a handy CitySightseeing shuttle that runs between the Naples cruise port, Naples' main train station, and Pompeii. This is easier than taking a train and much cheaper than a taxi or private cruise excursion (€15, 4/day usually at 9:15, 10:00, 10:45, and 11:30; last bus leaves Pompeii at 16:30).

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The location of the Alibus airport shuttle bus stop has changed at Centrale Station. It is now to the left as you exit the station, near the Tiger store.
  • The tourist information office inside Centrale Station has moved to the main lobby, next to the Trenitalia ticket office.
  • Galleria Borbonica's website is www.galleriaborbonica.com.

Orvieto

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • Tickets for the Duomo are now sold in Palazzo Soliano, the building directly to the right as you face the cathedral (the palazzo also houses the Emilio Greco collection).
  • The Duomo's Chapel of the Corporal is no longer accessible from the nave. Visit the Duomo interior first, then circle around the exterior to enter the chapel from the Duomo's left side. 
  • The Church of Sant'Agostino is now closed to the public (the Duomo statues it housed are now back at the cathedral).
  • Rental bikes are no longer available at the InfoPoint (ask at the tourist information for bike-rental options).
  • Hotel Virgilio and Agriturismo Poggio Della Volara have both closed.

Padua

  • Pizzeria Pago Pago has closed.

For books printed before January 2023, the following may also apply:

  • The Air Service Shuttle service to/from Marco Polo and Treviso airports has ceased operations.
  • Antica Trattoria dei Paccagnella has closed.
  • Hotel Belludi 37 has closed.

Pisa

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • Guide Martina Manfredi has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The main tourist information office is now open daily 10:00–18:00 (until 16:00 Nov–Feb).
  • You can now visit the Duomo without a reservation voucher, provided you have a ticket for any other single Field of Miracles sight (doesn't have to be a combo-ticket).
  • You may no longer be able to purchase bus tickets after boarding the bus; instead, get a ticket at a machine or tobacco shop.
  • Osteria lo Scioglipepe has closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • While it's best to make a reservation for the Leaning Tower in advance, there's usually no line after 18:00 (and you may be alone after 19:00; it's open until 20:00 April–Sept and until 22:00 mid-June–Aug).
  • Antica Trattoria il Campano is now open nightly 19:30–22:45.
  • Il Vegusto has closed.

For books printed before October 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Cruise passengers arriving in the Port of Livorno have a new option for getting inland: TuscanyBus.com, which offers cheap bus excursions to Pisa and/or Florence, as well as combo-rides that include Lucca. Buses leave from Livorno's Piazza del Municipio (near the port shuttle dropoff point).

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • The LAM Rossa bus stop at the Pisa Centrale Train Station is now outside the main entrance and to the right (not in front of the NH Cavalieri Hotel). Travelers can no longer take this bus line to or from the Galileo Galilei Airport to Pisa Centrale Station. Travelers must use either the "Pisa Mover" train to get to Centrale station from the airport, or take a taxi.

Pompeii and Herculaneum

  • Pompeii archaeological site no longer sells the bracelet allowing re-entry to the site. Each ticket is for a single entry only.

For books printed before October 2019, the following may also apply:

  • There is no longer a combo-ticket that covers both Pompeii and Herculaneum.
  • Rick now also recommends Gaetano Manfredi as a guide to Pompeii.
  • Cruise-ship passengers can now use a handy CitySightseeing shuttle that runs between the Naples cruise port, Naples' main train station, and Pompeii. This is easier than taking a train and much cheaper than a taxi or private cruise excursion (€15, 4/day usually at 9:15, 10:00, 10:45, and 11:30; last bus leaves Pompeii at 16:30).

Ravenna

For books printed before November 2019, the following may apply:

  • B&B Al Teatro and Ostello Dante have closed.

Riviera Towns near the Cinque Terre

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • Bus #82 between Santa Margherita and Portofino is now #782.
  • Sara Paolini is no longer working as a guide in La Spezia.
  • Portofino's Bistro Jolly has closed.
  • Sestri Levante's Villa Jolanda has closed.
  • La Spezia's Il Gelsomino B&B has closed.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • Roberta De Beni in Santa Margherita Ligure is no longer guiding.
  • In Levanto, Ebikein no longer offers bike rentals, but they still offers guided bike tours.
  • The tourist information office in Sestri Levante is now located at Corso Colombo 50, on the ground floor of Palazzo Fascie.
  • Near Portofino, boats wait on the beach at San Fruttuoso Abbey to take visitors out to the submerged Christ of the Abyss statue, There is currently no set schedule or cost and it is possible to negotiate a price, which is usually just a few euros.
  • Daytrippers visiting the Cinque Terre by train from La Spezia can store bags a three-minute walk from the station at the deposito bagagli at Via XX Settembre 209 (open 24/7, fully automatic, self-serve lockers in three sizes, €5–18/day).

Rome

For books printed before September 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Tickets for the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill are sold online only (no ticksts sold on-site). All Colosseum tickets are timed-entry.
  • Reservations are currently required for weekend visits to the Pantheon. (No reservations are required or possible on weekdays.)
  • The tourist information offices on Via Nazionale (at Palazzo delle Esposizioni) and near Piazza Navona (at Piazza delle Cinque Lune) have closed.
  • Visiting the Borghese Gallery has become a little easier: Entry is still by mandatory reservation, but appointed times are now offered hourly (rather than every 2 hours) and you're no longer required to limit your visit to two hours. To help with crowd control, visitors are now routed to different floors upon arrival.
  • The Roman Guy tours has a new phone number: US +1 888 290 5595.
  • Tom Rankin no longer leads guided tours.
  • Another option for requesting tickets to a papal audience is to email the Bishops' Office for US Visitors to the Vatican three months to three weeks prior to your requested date; you'll pick up tickets the afternoon before your visit ([email protected]).
  • Tickets for the Rome from the Sky elevator (at the Victor Emmanuel Monument) now include admission to the Risorgimento Museum.
  • The Mausoleum of Augustus has been restored and is open to visitors who book online far in advance.
  • The Roman Houses at Palazzo Valentini are now open every day.
  • Appia Antica Caffè, at the Ancient Appian Way, no longer rents bikes, but you can still rent one from the tourist information office near Domine Quo Vadis Church.
  • The small museum at Ostia Antica is closed for renovations.
  • Eating Italy food tours is now Eating Europe.
  • Several recommended restaurants have closed: Il Pentagrappolo, Hostaria da Nerone, and Pizzeria Annicinquanta.
  • San Crispino Gelateria (in the Pantheon neighborhood) has closed.
  • Many recommended shops have closed, including Made bakery, Spazio, Peperita, dell'Alta Moda, Vertecchi, Il Cerichio dei Goloso, La Peonia, Attilio, Roncaccia, and Santa Maria Novella.
  • The live music venue and enoteca Il Pentagrappolo has closed.
  • Dharma Style Hotel is now Dharma Luxury Hotel and has a new email address: [email protected].
  • The Casa di Santa Brigida has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Bellesuite Rome has closed, but Maison delle Naiadi Roma has opened in its place, with renovated rooms.
  • Several recommended hotels have closed: Casa per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci, Hotel Due Torri, Hotel San Carlo, Hotel Margaret, and Hotel Sileo.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • "Decorum laws" are now more strictly enforced, including fines. We no longer recommend picnicking anywhere but in parks or other green spaces. Eating discreetly is fine, but not near major sights.
  • The shortcut from the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter's is no longer an option. It is strictly for tour groups and the exit is monitored.
  • Colosseum and Forum tickets have changed: The basic Colosseum and Forum/Palatine ticket has gone up in price and is valid for 24 hours. The SUPER ticket is gone; in its place are two new tickets:
  1. The Full Experience ticket, valid two consecutive days, covers the Colosseum (plus choice of arena or underground area), Palatine Hill and Roman Forum, special Super sites, and the newly opened Imperial Forums (Forum of Julius Caesar and Forum of Trajan, connected by a new path that passes beneath Via dei Fori Imperiali).
  2. The Forum Super Pass, which is valid one day, includes Palatine Hill and Roman Forum, special Super sites, and the Imperial Forums, but not the Colosseum.

Both of these tickets allow entry near Trajan's Column.

  • The 48-hour Roma Pass only offers one sight, not two. This pass now covers the Villa Borghese.
  • St. Patrick's Church no longer arranges papal audience tickets.
  • The Museum of the Liberation of Rome is now open daily 9:00–19:00, except closed in August.
  • The café at the Victor Emmanuel Monument has closed.
  • Electric minibuses are back: Elettrico #117 connects San Giovanni in Laterano, Colosseo, Via Cavour, Via Nazionale, and Trevi Fountain. Elettrico #119 connects Piazza Venezia, Via del Corso, Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza del Popolo, and Piazza Augusto Imperatore.
  • The Opera da Camera di Roma has moved to Palazzo Albertoni Spinola at Piazza Capizucchi 6 (close to the Jewish quarter).
  • Feltrinelli International bookstore has closed.
  • The Italo train+bus connection between Rome and Sorrento has been suspended.

Sicily

For books printed before December 2023, the following may apply:

  • Palermo's main bus terminal is now located along track 10 of the central train station (no longer along track 1). Buses tot/from he airport now leave from near this bus terminal rather than in front of the train station on Piazza Giulio Cesar.
  • Palermo's official taxi website is now at www.6878.it.
  • The site for Palermo private driver Salvatore Coppola is now at www.insightsicily.com.
  • Teatro Massimo's box office (in Palermo) is now open daily (9:30–15:30), and the theater itself now closes at 17:00 instead of 18:00.
  • Palermo's Church of Santa Caterina is now open daily 10:00–18:00 (except in Nov–March, when it's open 9:30–13:30).
  • Palermo's Church of La Martorana is now open Tue–Sat 10:00–13:00 (closed Sun–Mon).
  • The Inquisition Cells at Palazzo Chiaramonte Steri in Palermo are now open daily (i.e. they're no longer closed on Mondays), and now open in the morning at 9:00 (not 10:00).
  • The bus from Palermo to Mondello now leaves from Piazza Francesco Crispi, not Piazza Sturzo.
  • Palermo's Residenza D'Aragona hotel has closed.
  • Several recommended Palermo restaurants are now closed on Mondays: Gagini, Bocum Fuoco (formerly called Bocum Mixology), and Passami ù Coppu. Other changes to restaurant hours in Palermo:
    • Antica Focacceria San Francesco is now closed Tuesdays.
    • Osteria Mercede is now closed Sundays.
    • Bisso Bistrot is now open daily.
    • Ferro di Cavallo is now only open for lunch on Mondays and Tuesdays.
    • Trattoria Al Vecchio Club Rosanero is now open only for lunch on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays.
  • Palermo's Perciasacchi restaurant has closed.
  • Trains between Palermo's airport and Stazione Centrale now run twice and hour, typically departing the airport at :28 and :47 (in operaton 4:00–22:12), and typically leaving Stazione Centrale at :12 and :42 (2/hour, run 5:20–22:45).
  • The correct email address for La Rosa dei Venti apartments in Cefalù is [email protected] (not .com).
  • The Ragusa Ibla tourist information office at Piazza della Repubblica has closed; instead try the tourist information office in Ragusa Superiore, across from the cathedral on Piazza San Giovanni (in Ragusa Ibla the office at Palazzo La Rocca can help, but isn't as well equipped).
  • Donnalucata's Brise Ristorante has closed.
  • Modica's Museum of Old Tools has closed.
  • Siracusa guide Eva Greco has a new email address: [email protected]. She now charges €70/hour, with a two-hour minimum.
  • Siracusa guide Paolo Gallo has a new email address: [email protected]. He now charges €280 for a half-day and €560 for a full day.
  • Combo-tickets that cover both the Neapolis Archaeological Park and the Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum are now €18 and valid for three days. Combo-tickets that cover the Bellomo Palace Gallery have been discontinued.
  • Caravaggio's Burial of Santa Lucia has been moved from the Church of Santa Lucia alla Badia in Ortigia back to its original spot for which it was painted: the Basilica of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro, in the modern part of town.
  • Siracusa's Le Comari Inn vegetarian restaurant and Salumeria Roma grocery have both closed, and the bar at Charme Hotel Henry's House is now open only to hotel guests.
  • Siracusa's Lemóni Suite has closed.
  • Siracusa's B&B Vittoria no longer rents rooms to travelers.
  • Allegroitalia hotel in Siracusa is now Lanterne Magiche Ortigia; they still rent apartments.
  • The sacristy in the Cathedral of Catania, which contains the fresco depicting the eruption of Mount Etna, is now viewable only via guided tour.
  • To join a guided tour of Palazzo Biscari you must now email in advance, as tours are sporadic and dependent on the season and private events.
  • Tour operator Etna Finder is no longer in business.
  • The Romeo del Castello winery at Mt. Etna no longer hosts visitors or wine tastings.
  • Tenuta di Fessina, along the north slope of Mount Etna, no longer rents individual rooms (but the entire villa can be booked, if you're so inclined).

Siena

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

  • The ticket office for the Duomo and related sights has moved to the left side of the Duomo...but may well move again before your visit. The Opa Si and Gate of Heaven passes are also available on the Duomo's website for an extra €2. (The Acropoli Pass is no more.) The cathedral is now open April–Oct Mon–Sat 10:00–19:00, Sun 13:30–17:30, Nov–March closes daily at 17:00.
  • The tourist information office has moved from the Duomo to Il Campo (at #7) and has a new phone number: +39 0577 292 222.
  • Tour guide Anna Piperato charges €60/hour, with or without a Rick Steves book (but she does offer a special treat for RS readers).
  • The Siena Info Point walking tour is no longer running, but the tourist information office still offers walking tours.
  • The GSO Guides Co-op is no longer operating.
  • The Accademia Musicale Chigiana no longer offers tours.
  • The medieval frescoes in the Civic Museum, including Lorenzetti's Effects of Good and Bad Government, may be covered up during your visit as they undergo extensive renovation (in which case the museum's entrance price will be reduced).
  • To our knowledge you can no longer store bags at the bus station.
  • The Friday morning organic-food market between the Fortezza and Piazza Gramsci is no more.
  • The Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore has a new phone number: +39 0577 707 258. Book ahead to visit its historic cellar (which is now open only on weekends Nov–March).
  • The office for Autolinee Toscane intercity buses (which operate virtually all of Tuscany's regional buses) is open Mon–Fri 7:15–19:30, Sat until 17:45, Sun 9:00–12:15 & 14:30–18:30.
  • Frances' Lodge Relais hotel has closed.
  • B&B Alle Due Porte has a new owner (Mariangela) and new contact info: +39 351 835 1819, [email protected].
  • Several recommended restaurants have closed: Osteria Liberamente, Osteria Titti, and Sapori e Dintorni Conad.

The following may also be helpful with our Siena City Walk audio tour:

  • Admission to the sights that comprise Siena's monumental cathedral complex is now by a unified combo-ticket. Individual tickets are available for the Duomo itself, but entry to the Duomo Museum, Baptistery, and Crypt is possible only with the combo-ticket (Opa Si Pass, valid for 72 hours).
  • The exhibit on the contrade and Palio inside Santa Maria della Scala has closed.

Sorrento and Capri

  • CitySightseeing's bright red hop-on, hop-off buses aren't currently running between Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, though you could call to confirm in case service has resumed in time for your visit (+39 081 1825 7088). Service to Ravello is almost certain not to resume.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • Three of Sorrento's tourist information offices have closed: near Piazza Tasso at the corner of Via Correale, at Marina Piccola, and at the Achille Lauro parking garage. Fortunately, they've opened a new office at Piazza Tasso 25 (and the regional information office at Via Luigi de Maio 35 now also serves as the main branch of the Sorrento-specific information office).
  • Sorrento's bus system has undergone major changes: All buses now stop or originate at the train station. Also, most buses no longer display route letters but instead show destinations on the front display. Stops are now marked more clearly. Buses to Marina Grande and Marina Piccola still stop at Piazza Tasso or Piazza Sant'Antonino, but other buses do not. Buses from the port to Piazza Tasso are now EAV minibuses. And the SITA Sud pass does not cover Sorrento city buses (only SITA buses, which do pass through city limits).
  • Giovanni Visetti is no longer guiding tours.
  • The Monetti taxi service's site has a new URL: www.monettitaxi17.com (not .it).
  • Autoservizi De Martino has moved to a more distant location and may not be reachable by phone. For another scooter-rental option in Sorrento try Penisola Rent (Piazza Lauro 44, +39 081 362 2189).
  • Sorrento Luggage baggage storage has closed.
  • The branch of Libreria Tasso at Via San Cesareo 96 in Sorrento has closed.
  • Sorrento's cathedral no longer hosts Anglican services.
  • The Italo train+bus connection between Sorrento and Rome has been suspended.x
  • Anglican church services at the cathedral have stopped.
  • Futuro Mare snorkel and dive center has closed.
  • Anacapri's tourist information office has moved to Piazza Vittoria 5.
  • Capri Sightseeing now offers a five-stop shuttle service on the island, as well as tours.
  • The Caremar ferry has a new phone number: +39 081 1896 6690.
  • Capri's Blue Grotto is no longer visitable in winter.

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • The Sorrento theater troupe Teatro Tasso is now called "Teatro Armida."

Tuscan Hill Towns

For books printed before November 2022, the following may apply:

For books printed before December 2019, the following may also apply:

  • In Pienza, Palazzo Piccolomini is now open on Mondays but closed Tuesdays.
  • Volterra's Empathy Bistrot is closed.
  • It is no longer necessary to book La Foce Gardens in advance, but it is recommended visitors confirm tour availability in advance as the gardens can be closed for private events.
  • Montepulciano Camere Bellavista has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Osteria del Conte in Montepulciano has changed its closed day to Monday (now open Wednesday).
  • The Brunello Wine Bus, near Montalcino, now runs March–Nov Tue and Thu only. Half-day tours are available Tue & Thu–Sat. Their new address is Via Circonvallazione 3.
  • In Montalcino, B&B da Idolina's check in time is now 15:00–19:00 and their website is now www.idolina1946.com.
  • Taverna del Grappolo Blu in Montalcino is now open daily.
  • Cortona's Fiaschetteria Fett'Unta is now open Thu–Tue 11:00–22:30 and closed Wednesday.
  • Reservations for La Bruciata agriturismo near Montepulciano are taken only for one-week-minimum stays April through October, but shorter bookings may be possible November through March, depending on availability.
  • The Diocesan Museum in Cortona is now closed Mondays in October, and closes at 16:00 Nov–March.
  • Cortona's tourist information office is now open Mon–Fri 9:00–12:30, also Tue and Thu 15:00–17:00, closed Sat–Sun.
  • The correct street address for Cortona's Locanda al Pozzo Antico is Via Ghini 14.
  • Casa Betania in Cortona has closed.
  • San Marco Hostel in Cortona has closed.

Venice

  • The dome of La Salute Church is now open to visitors (€8, Wed–Sun 10:00–17:00), making for another breathtaking Grand Canal viewpoint. Its sacristy (now €6) is now closed all day Mondays, and on Tuesday mornings.
  • Venice charges a tourist tax for overnight visitors (€1–5/person per night, depending on time of year and accommodation class). The city is also charging day-trippers €5 on certain dates; at those times every visitor to the old city should be prepared to show a QR code (whether from their hotelier or from the city's registration platform) as proof that they've paid the fee.

For books printed before November 2022, the following may also apply:

  • St. Mark's Basilica now charges admission (€3, or €6 for timed-entry advance ticket).
  • From late May to mid-September, vaporetto line #2, which typically runs between Piazzale Roma (bus station) and San Marco/San Zaccaria via Giudecca, converts to an express boat that runs all the way down the Grand Canal to/from San Marco.
  • Venice Bites Food Tours is no longer operating.
  • The Rolling Venice card is valid for ages 6–29.
  • The Vetri d'Arte shop in Palazzo Rota no longer offers glassblowing demonstrations.
  • City Sightseeing no longer runs hop-on, hop-off boats to the lagoon islands.
  • La Botique del Gelato has closed.
  • Casa Rezzonico hotel is closed for renovations, and may not reopen under the same name.
  • Hotel Anastasia has closed.
  • Albergo Doni has a new phone number: +39 348 511 1007.
  • Abbazia Hotel has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Locanda Ca' San Marcuola has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Locanda Herion has new a new email address: [email protected].
  • The intercity bus services formerly operated by Sena/Baltour have been taken over by Flixbus, with some changes in frequencies and routes.

For books printed before January 2021, the following may also apply:

  • Free tours of St. Mark's Basilica now begin at 11:00 (not 11:30)

For books printed before November 2019, the following may also apply:

For books printed before September 2018, the following may also apply:

  • Italo now runs a useful Milan–Venice train route.

For books printed before May 2018, the following may also apply:

Verona

For books printed before January 2023, the following may apply:

  • The helpful tourist information office has moved to Verona's City Hall (Palazzo Barbieri); its entrance is at Via Leoncino 61, just around the corner from Piazza Brà.
  • Tour guide Valeria Biasi has a new email address: [email protected].
  • Hotel Antica Porta Leona and L'Ospite hotel have closed.