Seemingly happy to go nowhere, Durham sits along the tight curve of its river, snug below its castle and magnificently situated cathedral. It has a medieval, cobbled atmosphere and a scraggly peasant's indoor market just off the main square. Enjoy Durham's youthful liveliness and small-town warmth — especially on sunny days, when most everyone is out licking ice-cream cones. The nearby countryside harbors some of the country's best historical sights. Go for a ramble at Hadrian's Wall, the northwest frontier of the Roman Empire 2,000 years ago, when Britain was a colony. Make a pilgrimage to Holy Island, where Christianity gained its first toehold in Britain. At the excellent Beamish Museum, travel back in time to the 19th and 20th centuries.