Sarlat-la-Canéda is a pedestrian-filled banquet of a town, serenely set amid forested hills. There are no blockbuster sights. Still, Sarlat delivers a seductive tangle of traffic-free, golden cobblestone lanes peppered with beautiful buildings, lined with foie gras shops (geese hate Sarlat), and stuffed with tourists. The town is warmly lit at night and ideal for after-dinner strolls. It's just the right size — large enough to have a theater with four screens, but small enough so that everything is an easy meander from the town center.